clueless home developer
thinking about developing my own film at home to save money - its like $5-6 to develop a roll here
tri-x 400 120mm rated at 200
arista premium 100 35mm
arista premium 400 35mm
how can i determine the developing times?
arista 100 is plus-x - so 7min45sec at 21degrees at 1:1
arista 400 is tri-x - so 9min at 21degrees at 1:1
tri-x 400 rated at 200???? - maybe 13min at 21degrees at 1:1?
can i use regular tap water
things i'll need to buy:
film changing bag
35mm film canister opener - can i use something diy - like scissors or a bottle cap opener?
funnel to pour stop and fixer back into storage bottles
clothes-pin for hanging negatives
some kind of clip weight for drying negatives straight
i should make the whole gallon at once and divide the solution into 500ml plastic coke bottles and store in a cool place
i can use 250ml of developer with 250ml water to develop one roll of 120mm or two rolls of 35mm at 1:1 in my patterson plastic developing tank
discarding the developer after each use, i'll be able to develop 15 rolls of 120mm or 30 rolls of 35mm
kodak indicator stop
dilute 1 part concentrate with 63 parts water
i have no idea how i should prepare this - all at once? just like 1 liter?
and how many times can i reuse stop bath
again, have no clue, make all at once because its powder?
how many times can i reuse fixer
kodak hypo clearing agent
why don't they have this in 1 gallon , can i use legacypro instead
make all at once?
kodak photo flo
do you use this at full concentrate
is this even necessary
can i dump these chemicals down the sink
Last edited by chij; 06-05-2011 at 04:14 AM. Click to view previous post history.
That is a lot of questions all at once...
1. How about that hockey game.....?
2. The tap water here is VERY good. Go by the exact times they call for @ http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
3. Follow the directions that come with the chemicals that you purchased. I tried the tabs that you left and the all came back as "404 Page not found"
4. Dispose of the used developer @ Kaslo & Broadway (Bottle depot & paint & chemicals)
5. Make 1 liter of stop according to the directions
6. Make up the full 3.85 Liters of Fixer And divide to smaller air sealed bottles. Reusable
7. Hypo clear I do not use
8. Photo Flo is 1-200 mixture so 1 bottle will last years
All the chemical etc that you mentioned actually last quite a while (except D76 is a 1 shot deal) Check in your area if they have any other chemical disposal instead of the one I mentioned. Order your film from Freestyle as well and you won't be paying $5-6 a roll that you mentioned. Vancouver is a very pleasing place to do photographs so just enjoy.....
Last edited by dances_w_clouds; 06-05-2011 at 02:32 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Reason: spelling & grammar
Your choice of chemicals is good. If the Kodak fixer has a hardener incorperated in it then best to use hypo clear to shorten wash times. My suggestion is a fixer without hardener. Also, recommend Edwal LFN for final rinse instead of Photo-Flo, much better product.
Shooting Tri-X at 200 would mean "pulling" development, less time in developer not more. Did you possibly mean Plus-X at 200? That would require pushing, and more developing time.
New Info: Tri-X shot iso 200--10.5min @20c, then using time/temp chart shows less than 5 min development time @21c. This is not recommended as any film developed less than 5 minutes could result in uneven development. (source:MDC)
Last edited by Rick A; 06-05-2011 at 07:06 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Reason: added info
BTW: the big kid in my avatar is my hero, my son, who proudly serves us in the Navy. "SALUTE"
Why on earth does everyone starting out developing their own film think they need hypo clearing agent? I see this all the time, is there still a popular old book around or website which suggests HCA?
Considering developer capacity you can only develop one roll of 120 and one roll of 135-36 with 250ml of D76. You can *fit* two rolls of 135-36 in the tank and cover them with developer but you run the risk of underdeveloping the film resulting in thin, hard to print negatives because of developer exhaustion.
One roll 120= 80 sq. in.
One roll 135-36=80 sq. in.
250ml of D76 will fully develop 80 sq. in. of film.
To do two rolls of 135-36 1:1 you will need 500ml of D76 plus 500ml of water in a 1 liter developing tank.
Quite often, Kodak's recommendations for developer capacity were based on the minimum amount of chemical needed to get a printable negative developed on an automated high volume processor.
For further information read Steve Anchell's 'The Darkroom Cookbook,' 3rd edition, for details on how much developer is required to fully develop a film.
Last edited by Fred Aspen; 06-05-2011 at 07:49 AM. Click to view previous post history.
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I use a little pair of vise grips to open my 35mm canisters. I recently inhertited a real canister opener and will start rolling my own so that might change. But I clip the vise grips onto the top of the canister's edge, once in my dark box, just rock the vise grips towards the center of the canister and it pops right off.
Yes, a bottle opener works perfect. Also, a 2nd clothespin will suffice for a bottom weight.
Originally Posted by chij
I'd suggest getting a dial type METAL thermometer. It costs few times more than the glass type but reaction time is so much faster, getting developer solution to the right temperature much easier. Trying to do that quickly with glass thermometer is very frustrating because of the reaction lag.
Discussing development time online is waste of time.... every little bit of variation in exposing and developing (technique) will cause changes sufficient enough to affect the "perfect" time. Just start from what's published and go from there. Unless you *really* screw it up, you will get usable and good result and from there, it's more of personal preference.
I'd also suggest spending some quality time with Kodak's technical literature about most of your chemicals. A LOT of your question is answered there in depth.
About Photo-flo, for some, including myself the standard 5ml to 1 liter (1:200) dilution causes drying marks. I use half that now and it works much better.
Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?
Unlike Harry, I'm a strong proponent of using HCA for film. It cuts washing time, and it makes it much more likely that washing will be complete.
Originally Posted by hpulley
Greg Davis did a bunch of tests on the variables and posted the results in this very long thread:
If nothing else, I think that his results show that it makes sense to use HCA with film.
To the OP: feel free to contact me if you would like to talk about this stuff.
“Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”
Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2
I interpret Greg's tests as showing that with a rapid non-hardening fixer, no HCA is needed. With a hardening fixer, HCA is useful. I only use non-hardening rapid fixer.