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  1. #1
    zsas's Avatar
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    How do I test a Beseler Dual Dichro S?

    I might buy a Beseler Dual Dichro S, but not seeing the manual as a PDF anywhere I am not sure what could be happening. I went today to look at the Beseler Dual Dichro S and the seller knew nothing about it. I plugged in both plugs and turned on the white switch on the bottom. The fan went on but no light was emitted. Could the bulb be dead or could I have not tested it right or could something worse be wrong with it? I did not buy it but if it is only a bulb then I might buy one and put it in and give it another try. What kind if bulb does a Beseler Dual Dichro S take if you think the bulb route is the one to take? Or was it the cords? Should the brown one have been in a timer?
    Best,
    Andy

  2. #2
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    To test it with the "LAMP" switch you need to plug a cord from "TO TIMER" to "FROM TIMER" to get the bulb to light.

    I wonder how someone can own an enlarger and "know nothing about it." If that is the case, he has no business selling photography equipment. I'd tell him its busted and offer $20.

    Here is the PDF. Read up then go back and look at it again. Make sure stuff like the honeycomb diffuser is all there. http://www.jollinger.com/photo/cam-c...hro23_head.pdf
    Last edited by ic-racer; 08-07-2011 at 10:53 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #3
    zsas's Avatar
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    I saw that PDF already but after reading a few times it seems different that the one I saw today. The one I saw had two plugs going out and no stabilized power supply as shown in the above PDF. I wonder if the Dual Dicro S is different than the manual posted above for the Dual Dicro (not S)?

    I get the feeling that the S model doesn't have a stabilized power supply? And if so, how do you engage the white light?

    The person selling it somehow came to own it, so very little was known re it.

    Thanks!

  4. #4
    George Nova Scotia's Avatar
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    It's likely the same set up as the 45 version of the Dichro S. One cord is plugged in to power the fan and the circuit board, the other is normally connected to a timer but plugging it into 110AC will turn on the light. The white light lever just moves the filters out of the light path. The stabilized power supply is built into the head. The lamp might be burnt out or just loose. They can pop out of the socket if moved or bumped in transport.

  5. #5

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    I wonder how someone can own an enlarger and "know nothing about it." If that is the case, he has no business selling photography equipment.
    One could easily inherit a CarboFlimCatch Dallywinkle, which is used for schnobotzing, and not know anything about it. They would be advised to look up a reasonable valuation on the web and then sell it without knowing anything about Dallywinkles. That would be a better course of action than throwing it out or giving it away.

  6. #6

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    Simply switching on the power switch on the underside of the Beseler Dual Dichro S head powers the cooling fan and panel illuminator lamp.

    As noted in post #2 you must connect a timer and engage the “focus” switch or set a time and trigger the timer to feed current to the lamp.

    Unless you’ve done one of these things and the lamp fails to come on, there is no evidence of a problem.

    The Dual Dichro S has the voltage step-down and stabilization built onto a circuit board inside the head. Therefore, it doesn’t require a voltage stabilized power supply as do the Dichro DGA and the newer Dual Dichro heads.

    The Dual Dichro S was, I believe, the 3rd version. It requires a 250-watt 82-volt EVW lamp.

    The older DGA and Dual Dichro heads use the 24-volt 200-watt ELJ lamp.

    You need to obtain the Dual Dichro S manual. This will answer all of your questions. It's reasonably priced from KHB Photographix in Missasauga, Ontario.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Beseler-Dual-Dic...-/350356961950

  7. #7
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monito View Post
    One could easily inherit a CarboFlimCatch Dallywinkle, which is used for schnobotzing, and not know anything about it. They would be advised to look up a reasonable valuation on the web and then sell it without knowing anything about Dallywinkles. That would be a better course of action than throwing it out or giving it away.
    If the seller 'does not know anything about it' then there is no economic obligation for profit. Just pass it on to someone that knows what it is and can use it.
    Now if a seller gave it a complete test, clean and or repair, or is able to confirm it will do what the seller wants it to do, then a profit is justifiable.
    'Flipping' is a source of useless economic inflation. No good or service has been produced for the exchange of money.

    To the OP: If this is the first enlarger you have looked at, keep looking. (Unless we are talking about the $20 range with the enlarger in the OP.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by ic-racer View Post
    If the seller 'does not know anything about it' then there is no economic obligation for profit.
    There is no obligation, but no impediment either.

    Just pass it on to someone that knows what it is and can use it.
    Or sell it to someone who knows what it is and can use it. Or sell it to someone who doesn't know but is willing to take the risk to invest their capital. Or sell it to somebody who knows how to market it.

    There is no need to be a sucker and give it away.

    The downside of you wanting a stream of free enlargers to somehow automatically find their way to APUG members to snap up for free is that it devalues every other enlarger that APUG members own, especially the ones that they are trying to sell here and elsewhere.

    Now if a seller gave it a complete test, clean and or repair, or is able to confirm it will do what the seller wants it to do, then a profit is justifiable.
    If people are only allowed to buy and sell at prices that are "justifiable", that is communism: a totally regulated command-and-control economy. No thanks. Selling an enlarger is nowhere close to gouging gas prices in an emergency, and even then there is lots of economic merit to a free market.

    'Flipping' is a source of useless economic inflation. No good or service has been produced for the exchange of money.
    Wrong. When someone flips an enlarger it is more likely to be marketed such that it ends up in "strong hands": in the possession of somebody who actually will use it.

    A person selling to a flipper is likely to not be able to sell to anybody else due to their ignorance, in which case the enlarger is likely to end up stuck in a corner of a dirty mouldy shed and become useless after a decade of neglect. Thus the flipper is rendering a service to the seller and to the analogue community by marketing it in a much wider range of venues such that it comes to the notice of those in the community desiring an enlarger like that. To do so, the flipper must risk their capital. They can lose if they estimated the value poorly or estimated the market poorly or evaluated the condition of the enlarger badly.

    Suppose you inherit an old rifle from an uncle passed away and you don't know anything, say, about old rifles. You'd be a fool to just give it away to a stranger and find out later that it was an antique French musket used in the Indian wars in the early 1700s worth $20,000. Your uncle would at least want you to sell it to a collector for $3,500, say. It wouldn't matter if the collector already had two others in better condition and flipped it for $10,000 to another collector who waited three years for the right buyer who paid $20,000. You got something more useful to you ($3,500) than an old rifle you don't know about.

    The alternative is communism.

  9. #9
    zsas's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the suggestions! I will tell you that the person selling this color head bought it just to re-sell (ie a picker or flipper) and why the seller knows next to nothing about it. I appreciate all advice you all have offered. I believe that since the unit has the power stabilizer built into the unit that the fact that the bulb did not engage means that the bulb is either burnt out or the item is defective.

    Does anyone disagree? It sounds like we have some folks saying no you can't test the bulb by plugging both cords into a power strip and some saying that the bulb power cord has to only be plugged into a timer and tested in focus or running clock mode. I don't believe a timer lowers the power, it just cuts power on/off depending on timer parameters.

    If the unit resolves the bulb power internally why would one need to couple it with a timer? Yes I know in the darkroom that is proper practice but I am just trying to test if it works while at the seller's home. Do I need to drag a timer to the seller's home to accurately test the Dicro S?

    Thoughts?

  10. #10
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monito View Post

    There is no need to be a sucker and give it away.
    There is no need to be a sucker and buy it from someone trying to rip you off.

    If the seller can't show the buyer that it works, its not the buyer's job to figure it out, unless he's getting if for a bargain or free.

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