Well thanks for providing it anyway. I could not understand your code as it was rather over my head so I had got most of the way through writing my own when you posted the hack also I was having trouble getting your code to compile from this source, there is no .pde aduino file? I copied and pasted the content of the .ino file into an Arduino sketch but it would not compile. This was about the same time I ran into the same ram problems, I was trying to store arrays of 99 exposures, I cut the arrays back to 50 exposures (enough even for me I'm sure) and is appears to be OK. I have some tweaking to do on the code to finish the V1 then I will post it. I would like to look at your code running to see how you handle dodges, something I have no provision for other than pausing the base exposure. Sorry for being so dim.
I'm A photographer not an artist
You need to download a newer (at least 1.0) Arduino IDE. The older ones used pde files, the post-1.0 editions now call them ino files. I'm using 1.0.1 I think.
Actually I think mine would work for complex programs if I took out all the text descriptors for each step. I got it up to about 16 steps with 6 chars/step but going to no text should work with ~64 steps. How you'd remember what to do at each step though I have no idea.
If you want to see the maths behind dodging, look at the Program::compile functions. I should probably make a video sometime... but working on my print backlog is more important
If a timer without textual labels for each exposure is useful to you, then I've managed to hack mine to support 40 exposures per program and it can save 12 programs to EEPROM. PM me your email address and I will email you the source.
Due to ongoing demand for this timer (the PCBs sold out two years ago!), I have re-designed the PCB and this evening sent off for a new batch of 20 to be manufactured. The new version has some pins broken out so that you can theoretically connect a TSL230 (much wider dynamic range, complex control scheme) or TSL235R (low max-brightness but probably OK under enlarger, may require some ND; no control logic required) light meter and therefore meter your exposures. I don't have such a meter yet (I can't find the one I bought) so there is no software support for it at this time. It should allow the timer to operate closed-loop (for cold lights), or to spot-meter your negative under the enlarger for the purpose of analysing required exposure and/or doing zone/contrast calculations for VC paper. I'll have to have a bit of a ponder about how that integrates with the core timer functionality, and suggestions re the workflow are welcome.
Boards are $10 each plus postage at-cost; I expect them to reach me in about 2 or 3 weeks. Feel free to PM or email me pre-orders and once I've tested the first one (a donation to the local community darkroom), I will contact you about payment (PayPal).
In semi-related matters for those who are hacking on enlargers, have you seen the new 100W LED chips? They're about $10, or $15-20 with the supply controller. Craziness.
Revision-B boards have arrived and I will hopefully get to test one this weekend. Thanks to the 5 people who have PM'd me their orders, you'll hear back soon once I have the first board running.
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Yeah, chuck me down for one of them too, I could do with something better than an iphone app set to a 1s metronome 'beep'. I'll get it off you whenever the next meetup is...
An awful lot of electrons were terribly inconvenienced in the making of this post.
First two boards are assembled and tested; the new layout works. I haven't tested the TSL235 functionality because I still can't find the one I bought.
Postage costs are:
- Australia: $1, or $5 registered (1-3 days)
- International*: $7 airmail (3-14 days), $15 registered (3-14 days), $16 express (3-7 days, untracked), $25 (tracked)
... plus $10 per board, pay via PayPal. If you want to buy multiple boards, there will be little or no saving on postage unless you buy 4+ because a single board can go as a letter (cheap!).
When paying, make sure your postal address is included in the PayPal transaction! If you've PM'd me, you have a board allocated for sure, and there's about 10 left after the PMs. If you've PM'd me, you should have received a reply recently linking to this post and with my paypal address included. Let me know if you didn't.
I haven't yet uploaded the new code for the different pinout to my website but should do so in the next few days - before any boards arrive. If you're building a timer using the new board, make sure you get the latest code, it will have a 2014 date on it. The new code will also work with the old boards (but no TSL235 support!) if you set the preprocessor directives appropriately.
* I checked postage prices to USA, UK, CA, FR, IE, NO and they're all identical. If you're in the western world, these prices are probably valid. You can also see for yourself on auspost.com.au.
Last edited by polyglot; 04-12-2014 at 10:12 AM. Click to view previous post history.
PS for those who are using the original board and want light-sensor capabilities, the new board is mostly footprint-compatible. I have already replaced the board in my timer without making ANY hardware changes, because everything stacks up identically. Assuming I get the TSL235 integrated with the timer software, you can just buy a new board to replace your old one with no need to replace any other major components (arduino, LCD, keypad, relays, etc). You'll need to reprogram the arduino with the new software of course.
Again, this is open software/hardware. If you want to build your own, you can. You don't need to buy a board from me, you can make one of these using a $3 prototype shield and an hour with your soldering iron. I still recommend the use of a powerswitchtail for those who are not trained as electricians or electrical engineers, just for safety reasons.
paypalled just now. I sent US dollars? I know you're in oz but I thought maybe you went for USD as most things around here are in USD. If there's any shortfall, just let me know.
Will pm you my address in case you can#t get it off paypal.
Lastly, if you have it handy, would you post a BOM - or a screenshot of a mouser/farnell basket etc?
Cheers, and many thanks for making this happen.
Thanks. AUD or USD are fine.