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  1. #11

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    You may not need a stop bath for film, but I still use it. It stops development dead and so gives more precise times.

    The biggest enemy of drying film is dust. It gets into the soft wet emulsion and never comes out again. You then get dust spots coming through on the prints, which is a royal pain. I have two little domestic air filters in my dark room which cost virtually nothing and produce near clean room conditions. Let them run for at least an hour before the film is ready to dry (I leave mine on all the time).

    If you have hard water, get a domestic chemical water filter and run the final wash water through it two or three times to totally de-lime it (or use distilled water) and a drop of wetting agent in the final wash does no harm, otherwise you can get lime scale marks left on the film.

    If you are going to wash in the tank from a tap, you will need a hose. Remember to start the flow very slowly so that the temperature does not change too quickly, otherwise you can get micro reticulation, which looks terrible.

    David.

  2. #12
    Andy K's Avatar
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    When developing black and white, there are often differences between the film manufacturer's dev times and the chemical manufacturer's times.

    For example: for Ilford HP5 @ 20c in Rodinal 1+25 in a small tank.

    The time according to Ilford is 6 minutes with 10 secs initial agitation and then 10 secs agitation each minute.
    According to Rodinal, the time should be 10 minutes with continuous agitation for the first minute and then tilting every 30 seconds.

    Whose instructions do we follow?


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  3. #13
    sparx's Avatar
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    I'm a bit of an Ilford fan so would recommend Ilfotec as a liquid developer and ID-11 as a powder. ID-11 is v. similar to D76 and will develop pretty much anything. With these developers i would stick to FP4 and HP5. HP5 is great as it can be rated from 200 up to 3200 so covers pretty much any eventuality. Also, sticking to one make to start with will sidestep the problems Andy mentioned above. A
    s for rinsing, i've just bought some Patterson wetting agent and a couple of bottles of Ionised water for car batteries. So far, no water marks and the film seems to dry quicker as well.
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  4. #14
    Ed Sukach's Avatar
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    As far as differing developing times ... I guess, to start, my best advice would be to strike an average.. and go from there.

    The disadvantage to an acid stop bath is the danger of producing "pinholes" in the emulsion. Ilford and others studied this at length, and the latest I've read suggests using plain water, or reducing the "usual" stop bath strength by 50% - 75%. I use plain water, and have not been troubled by pinholes for the last ~~ bunch of years.
    Carpe erratum!!

    Ed Sukach, FFP.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Sukach
    The disadvantage to an acid stop bath is the danger of producing "pinholes" in the emulsion.
    Well well, I didn't know that. I can't say I have ever had the problem, though, and I must have processed a few thousand films. But I agree that high dilution is a good idea.

    David.

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