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  1. #1
    aaronmichael's Avatar
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    Advanced Black and White Photography

    Taking Advanced Black and White Photography this semester which is a class dedicated to the 4x5 view camera! Woo hoo! I've shot 4x5 once before and it wasn't too bad. My professor emphasized the importance of keeping dust off of the negatives. Any other helpful tips in terms of developing, loading, shooting,...etc?

    Or any recommendations on film? Our professors suggested Kodak TXP 320. Adox CHS 50 sounds like fun to shoot but not sure how applicable it would be for the class.

  2. #2
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    any fast film and a good tripod will do.ask her why dust seems to prefer to get stuck in the sky portion of the image.

  3. #3
    LJH
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    What will you be shooting?

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    Ralph has iterated one of the mysteries of the universe: That's why you need to keep everything as dust-free as possible, since even if you have only one speck of dust, it will end up in the sky, or some other continuous-toned portion of the image and be a PITA.

    Seriously, keeping things clean when loading holders is essential for dust control. Clean the holders well before loading paying particular attention to the light trap. I vacuum mine. Pick a dust-free place to load. You don't want a lot of dust floating around in the air or try to load holders inside a dusty changing bag. In my darkroom, I keep a small air-filter running. Settle the dust by increasing the humidity. I run some hot water a bit. Once you are ready to load, try to minimize the emulsion surface's exposure to possible dust contamination. I start with my film stack emulsion-side down and turn the film over to load. Close the darkslide immediately after loading.

    Once you have your holders loaded, get them into individual zip-loc style bags to keep dust off them. Before shooting, make sure you have dusted out the inside of the camera bellows (don't want dust floating around inside the camera either). When you remove a holder from its bag, check again for dust on the holder surfaces (there always seems to be some!). Brush or blow it off before loading. After exposure, dust is not such an issue, but any dust on the negative at the time of exposure will block light to that area (i.e., the sky), causing a "pinhole," which will result in black speck on the print, which is not fun to spot or etch off.

    Hope this helps.

    Doremus

    www.DoremusScudder.com

  5. #5
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphLambrecht View Post
    any fast film and a good tripod will do.ask her why dust seems to prefer to get stuck in the sky portion of the image.
    Nice to have you in good humor Ralph.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    My aspiration of late is to become more Bohemian; "a person with artistic or intellectual tendencies, who lives and acts with no regard for conventional rules of behavior."

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphLambrecht View Post
    ask her why dust seems to prefer to get stuck in the sky portion of the image.
    Dust particles are kept in suspension above the negative by electrostatic levitation over areas of high silver content (the darker portions of the image). Naturally they tend to disperse sideways by brownian motion and consequently settle on the less dense portions of the negative such as the sky, where there is less silver.

  7. #7
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
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    For dust you want to make sure there is no dust in the air (impossible, but try). And no dust in the film loading area. I vacuum my holders in a different room from where I load them, or at least make sure the exhaust port on the vacuum is not in the darkroom. Then I run an air filter in the darkroom before loading. But turn it off during the loading. Finally wipe down you loading area with a damp cloth and then dry it. Doing all of that you will only find dust in the sky of your best image for the day. As others have mentioned, keep your film holders in bags, and the bellows clean.

    TXP is a good film. So is TMax 400, Ilford FP4+, and many others.It really depends on what you are shooting. I think TMax400 is probably the best all around film on the market today. It has fine grain, develops easily in many developers, and has nice tonality. I much prefer it over Tmax100. I do like TXP a lot for portraits though.

  8. #8
    daleeman's Avatar
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    In the fall of 2011 I took a class focused on the 4x5 as well. Prof wanted everyone to do contact prints so he could see the edge lines and cut down on the cheaters photoshopping in a border with notch codes.
    Anyway, I really got to like tx320 in that class. Ran it in Diafine all the time. Shot all portraits, working long times with each person was the rewarding part and no one jumped up to chimp the back of the camera to see how good they looked.

    Enjoy your class. Will share some of my work if you share some of your.
    Lee

  9. #9

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    Hello;
    Would only use the tri-x indoors or low light, my choice would be fp4. This film has a wide exposure latitude. Can be rated safely from 50-250 asa, most large format camera shutters are rated at 1/200th second. Have an old ilex 215mm lens, top speed of the shutter is only 1/150sec. Good luck, Steven.

  10. #10
    JBrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edward_S View Post
    Dust particles are kept in suspension above the negative by electrostatic levitation over areas of high silver content (the darker portions of the image). Naturally they tend to disperse sideways by brownian motion and consequently settle on the less dense portions of the negative such as the sky, where there is less silver.
    Wow. I thought they just showed more against large even areas of the print. Shows what I know.
    --J Brunner, The Prints of Darkness (An Angel who did not so much fall, as Saunter Vaguely Downwards)


    Developing video:
    http://www.jasonbrunner.com/videos.html

    My Photostream:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/21376451@N05/

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