Bulk LF Film: Cutting and Loading Aerial Roll Film
[COLOR=Navy]"I see that you use the aerographic film and cut it down to size. How do you do this consistantly? I'd like to know your technique so I can save some $$. Thanks!
isaacc7"[/COLOR]
Since I get these queries from time to time I thought perhaps a thread and discussion of others findings besides mine would be worthwhile.
I use a cheap Fiskars Roller cutter that is available in any craft store. It has a cutting area of 12X12 inches and is made of plastic. I've found that a 12" wood ruler fits perfectly between the 2 raised areas that define the cutting table. So if I'm cutting 5X7 films from a roll of Aerial Plus X, I place my ruler as a stop at 6 7/8" or whatever is exactly correct, and then I put a piece of masking tape to both hold the ruler / stop in place and also to act as a stop for the film that would otherwise try to go underneath the ruler stop.
I get a clean 11X14 processing tray and in the dark I place the roll of Aerial film so that it will be played off the top of the reel, emulsion side down. I usually play out about 4 feet and then let it simply fall into the 1114 tray. Then I simply lay the the film under the carriage up to the stop, lock the cutting area in place with the carriage and roll the cutter.
I load each piece as soon as it is cut. 8X10 cuts from a 9 1/2" roll requires 2 cuts each. More trouble than most would put up with. I cut several "10's" and leaf them into a clean magazine like Shutterbug, then go back and trim the 9 1/2" to 8" and load.
Does all of this increase Murphy's chances to get lint, nose hairs, dry skin flakes, dirt, dust, and other tiny ephemora into my photographs. In a word, YES. It is an imperfect method but depending on what you end up paying for the aerographic plus X film, is worth the $ savings. I'm currently enjoying 5X7 sheets at about the same cost as Edward Weston was paying for 8X10 in 1940. A little over 17 cents each.
He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep..to gain that which he cannot lose. Jim Elliot, 1949
Can you tell the difference between the base and the emulsion side in the dark? It does sound like a bit much for me, too many ways this clutz could screw it up... Thanks for the info!
Thanks, Jim! I've been wondering about this myself. I once tried to make a cutting jig myself, and it wasn't very successful (but on the other hand, I wasn't trying very hard), so it's good to see a system that works.
I have not used this bulk film...where do you purchase it and is it suitable for 7 x 17
thanks
Dave Wooten
There's a seller on Ebay called mrfoto1 that sells it. Yes, you can cut 7X17 from the 9 1/2" wide rolls but you'd need a larger cutter than what I described. I plan on doing this and 8X20 as well but I'll have to get a cutter with a 24" cut area.
He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep..to gain that which he cannot lose. Jim Elliot, 1949
I bought a roll of Plus-X from mrfoto, I found him reliable and friendly. Mine is frozen- but I plan to break into it soon. How do you like the film itself Jim? (I shoot Tri-X) will I hate it?
Worth mention is the Aerial Panatomic X. Looks and acts very much like Technical Pan. You shoot it at ASA 32 and the grain is so fine you can't focus with a grain focuser. It is worth doing in 4X5 if you're considering grainless 40X50 enlargements. I had thrown up my hands on doing any more 4X5 with this stuff as I was having to develop it one sheet at a time. The 4 mil thickness doesn't work with any of the usual devices that count on a thick flat piece of film. But enter the JOBO 3010 expert tank. I think you could do 10 of these at a time in a Jobo expert.
He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep..to gain that which he cannot lose. Jim Elliot, 1949
Interesting to note is that a customer of mine is having a custom ULF camera made in the size of 9.5 x 20 inches just to accomodate 9.5 x 20 inch aeriel B&W and color film. I guess he will have to make only 1 cut per sheet, should be easy as pie! Emile. www.deleon-ulf.com .
Adv Reply
Originally Posted by Dave Wooten 
