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  1. #31
    RobertoMiglioli's Avatar
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    This is so cool! Bring us some pictures of the process.

  2. #32

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    Oct 2002
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    The negatives are almost all developed, and appear to be without fog and quite sharp. So, apparently the heft and the thickness of the KMV lens boards as supplied by MAS were enough to keep the board in place without shaking when the shutter was released ( of course, a cable release was used ). The prints will supply more information.




    Quote Originally Posted by Mahler_one View Post
    I thought that users of the KMV will benefit from the following.

    I had travelled to Jackson, Mississippi and was photographing at an interesting Confederate burial ground and a near-by abandoned tenant farmer’s home when I noted that the top slider which holds the lens board in place was hanging down. As many of you know, the original screws holding the top slider were rather flimsy. Moreover, such original screws can, of course, no longer be located. I had fashioned a make shift solution when I purchased the camera. However, if one uses the new KMV lens boards from Michael Smith one will find that the new boards are considerably “stronger” and “thicker” than the original Kodak boards. Such boards (although an improvement), put added stress on the mounting screws holding the top slider. Indeed, one might find it a bit difficult at first to work the new lens boards under the bottom lip and slide the top slider over the top of the board. Needless to say, it was impossible to find the small screw amongst the weeds. Moreover, even if the screw was found, I did not have a small hex wrench to reattach the screw onto the camera. Also, I had no tape to hold the board in place at the top right side.

    Obviously I did the best that I could; one does not travel 700 miles and pack up without trying to photograph. Hopefully the new lens board will have been thick enough so that light will not have found a path behind the board. We shall see.

    The solution? After appropriate cursing and head shaking, my friend and I went to the local Ace Hardware store. I had done the same thing here in Florida when trying to solve the “problem” , and of course found that the store had no appropriate screws. Needless to say, the store in Jackson-although having thousands of screws of both metric and machine measurements- did not have any screw that worked. We went to a “fastener store” and of course they did not have anything to replace the “original screws”. My friend who is a retired Professional Engineer and is very familiar with all manner of nuts, bolts, screws, etc. and the very helpful young man at the counter thought that “retapping” the original hole and using a modern machine screw would be the best solution. The bellows on my camera is mounted such that top of the bellows is BELOW the hole where the screws holding the slider is located. Hence, there was no danger of ruining the top of the bellows if the replacement screw was too long. So, the two of them carefully “retapped” the original hole ( start with a tapered tap and then use the straight tap ) using a small “tap wrench”. They then screwed in a standard 4-40 ¼ inch machine screw and adjusted the tightness so that the slider was easily moved yet very secure. The length of the new screw is perfect; there is no protrusion of the screw behind the board, and no risk of damaging the bellows or the camera. Of course, we could have clipped the back end of the screw had such been needed.

    Done! The new screw is a standard size, easily found at any hardware store and thus simple to replace. The new screw is much “stronger” and the top end of the thicker lens board is held more securely in place. The downside is, of course, that the camera is no longer “completely authentic”. However, I think you might agree that the advantages of not having to worry about having a situation similar to mine is worth having two “non authentic” screws.

    Elliot

  3. #33

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    Have anybody tried to use lubricant for the metal focusing parts of the KMV? Would it make it smoother?

  4. #34

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    Oct 2002
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    Hi again Stig:

    I used some silicon spray lubricant on the metal parts. Movement was indeed smoother without any "chugging". Incidentally, my KMV had some need of lubricant where some of the plastic knobs ( front swing and shift ) were. The silicon worked quite well there also.

    Hopefully Michael will chime in.

  5. #35

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    Restoring my Kodak Mast View 8x10

    Quote Originally Posted by Mahler_one View Post
    Hi again Stig:

    I used some silicon spray lubricant on the metal parts. Movement was indeed smoother without any "chugging". Incidentally, my KMV had some need of lubricant where some of the plastic knobs ( front swing and shift ) were. The silicon worked quite well there also.

    Hopefully Michael will chime in.
    Thank you. Also I wonder, what thickness is recommended for the cork on the front standard? The thinnest I can find is 0.8mm, but maybe it is too thin as it can easily break? If any has a link, I would appreciate

  6. #36

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    Oct 2002
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    I'll try to find the rest of the cork sheeting that I used Stig. The cork is on a sheet with a self adhesive back. I simply cut the cork sheet to the length and width needed, and affixed the glued part to the side of the "standard". Have you any art supply stores where you are?

    If you cannot find what you need send me a PM with your address. I'll try to get to the store over the next few days and get a sheet off to you.

  7. #37

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    Restoring my Kodak Mast View 8x10

    Quote Originally Posted by Mahler_one View Post
    I'll try to find the rest of the cork sheeting that I used Stig. The cork is on a sheet with a self adhesive back. I simply cut the cork sheet to the length and width needed, and affixed the glued part to the side of the "standard". Have you any art supply stores where you are?

    If you cannot find what you need send me a PM with your address. I'll try to get to the store over the next few days and get a sheet off to you.
    Thank you so much for your friendly offer I did check with the local art store but could not find it. I found a very thin .08mm sheet online for 14$. Maybe it will do...

    http://www.corkstore.com/Products/Co...Sheet-PSA-08mm

  8. #38

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    Apr 2012
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    KMV standards rock back-and-forth when locked down

    I just acquired a KMV. The standards on this camera have 1/8" of radial travel each. This play seems to originate at the points were the tilt mechanism connect to bakelite brackets at the bed of the camera. I believe the root cause of this loosness is that the shafts that run through these bakelite brackets have enlarged their holes over time. I was thinking a small brass sleeve could be used to tighten up the movement at these pivot points. Any thoughts and/or suggestions on fixing this bothersome problem would be appreciated.

    - Jeff

  9. #39

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    Oct 2002
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    I have forwarded your question to Michael Smith who is probably the most astute when issues concerning the KMV are concerned.

    Question: How did you acquire your camera, i.e., from Ebay? If so, have you any recourse from the seller?

    Elliot

  10. #40

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    Yes I did purchase this on eBay, and it included a 14 day return option. Are you thinking the problem I have described is is not going to be worth the hassle of trying to fix?

    I wish Kodak had not used bakelite for these bracket components; the rest of the components are of robust metal.


    Quote Originally Posted by Mahler_one View Post
    I have forwarded your question to Michael Smith who is probably the most astute when issues concerning the KMV are concerned.

    Question: How did you acquire your camera, i.e., from Ebay? If so, have you any recourse from the seller?

    Elliot

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