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  1. #1

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    Oct 2002
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    Restoring my Kodak Mast View 8x10

    I am bringing my Kodak MV 8x10 back to original standards, and I have a few questions:

    1. Was there cork on the slider bar that adjusts front shift and swing? If so, can you tell me where the cork was placed? Obviously the cork provides additional friction so as to keep the slider firmly in place.

    2. I know that there was cork on the front standard...however, was the cork on the upright unmoving metal "standards", or on the sides of the lens board holder?

    Much obliged for any help provided.

    Elliot

  2. #2
    DanielStone's Avatar
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    cork/cork wouldn't allow for easy movements, so I doubt it.

    I do remember cork on the front frame, but not on the standards themselves.

    -Dan


  3. #3

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    Elliot, mine only has cork on the front frame, not the standard. I also need to replace this cork since it doesn't provide enough friction to keep the movements in position. Let me know your progress, please.
    van Huyck Photo
    "Progress is only a direction, and it's often the wrong direction"

  4. #4

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    OK....my information from you and others suggests that there was cork on the front frame that holds the lens board. No information yet about any material on the front "slider"....Doug, Daniel, and any others....it was suggested, and I will follow such, that I purchase some very inexpensive thin sheets of cork with a self adhesive backing. Thin strips affixed to the sides of the front frame should supply(?) the required friction. The problems to be solved? Well, the front frame would slip and not easily "tighten" when the knobs were tightened against the frame. Very annoying to have to deal with a sliding frame that also would not always stay aligned correctly i.e., one side would be slightly higher than the other. The friction without the cork was usually enough for axis tilt....but not enough when carrying out front rise and fall.

    BTW-Do either of you have problems with manually raising the frame for front rise....not talking about the vernier screw which makes small corrections easily. Every once in a while one has to raise the front frame more than anticipated-usually in taking photos of barns, etc., etc. With a heavy lens sometimes it is a bit of a struggle to push the frame up with my fingers! Hopefully the cork will keep the frame aligned so that raising the frame will be a bit easier.

    Thanks for the help.

    Elliot

  5. #5
    DanielStone's Avatar
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    Elliot,

    because the KMV has no detent ball/pin to keep it centered, and the knob that loosens the frame to rise/fall also controls axis tilt, if there is no tilt required for the photograph, I used to simply run my fingers along the front standard to keep it parallel with it.

    If tilt WAS required, I adjust for rise/fall FIRST, then apply tilt 2nd. If some extra tiny amount of rise/fall is needed AFTER tilting for scheimpflug, I'd just use the rise/fall screw for final compositional adjustment.

    -Dan


  6. #6

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    Oct 2002
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    Hi Daniel:

    I never need to loosen the knobs in order to accomplish axis tilt. Even without cork the friction between the metals keeps the plate stable. I wanted to apply the cork to have even more friction when using axis tilt, and to hope that the cork will allow the plate to be better secured when using the knobs.

    Good suggestion about running one's fingers along the sides of the plate....I do the same basic action with the front "slider" when applying shift to be sure that there is no swing!

    I have the cork ( about $2.00 at Michael's for a very large sheet with adhesive on the back ). Will cut and apply to the sides of the front plate. Report to follow.

  7. #7

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    Recall that the large piece of thin cork with the adhesive back was purchased at Michael's for about two dollars. Cut to size, installed as Doug suggested on the sides of the front lens "plate". Needed to "work" the side standard a bit so that the edges of the standard fit over the edge of the cork...obviously the sides of the plate and standard must be next to each other with the cork between. I found that only the top half of each lens plate needed the cork. Then- perfect! The front plate has the additional friction that keeps the plate completely stable when tilting ( no real need to loosen the knobs very much Daniel ), and moreover there is no longer any sagging of the front plate to one side. Manual front rise needs a bit more effort ( would probably need a lot more effort if the bottom halves of each side of the plate had cork ) but the plate stays in place, and tightens down perfectly. Vernier rise and fall-no problem at all. Problem solved, and the difference in the use of the camera today was obvious. Set up in under a minute, etc., etc. What a pleasure not to have to worry about stability with heavier lenses mounted on the camera.

    Thanks.

    Elliot

  8. #8

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    Hi Elliot,

    Hope your KMV restoration project is going well.

    I've recently acquired a Master View and wondering about using rear swing. I can barely move the (round) "clamp lever's" that supposedly loosen the rear standard to allow swing, and when I do manage to nudge them loose towards the rear of the camera the standard remains firmly stuck in place. Does yours move at all?

    Very helpful thread. Thanks.

    Carl

  9. #9
    Greg Davis's Avatar
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    It sounds like it needs to be disassembled and cleaned. There are manuals out there with exploded diagrams of how it is assembled, so search one out.
    www.gregorytdavis.com

    Did millions of people suddenly disappear? This may have an answer.

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  10. #10

    Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlj View Post
    Hi Elliot,

    Hope your KMV restoration project is going well.

    I've recently acquired a Master View and wondering about using rear swing. I can barely move the (round) "clamp lever's" that supposedly loosen the rear standard to allow swing, and when I do manage to nudge them loose towards the rear of the camera the standard remains firmly stuck in place. Does yours move at all?

    Very helpful thread. Thanks.

    Carl
    Hi Carl:

    I have forwarded your query to Michael Smith who is an authority on KMV cameras. Let's wait for some advice before proceeding further and possibly making matters worse. My first inclination might have been to spray a small amount of silicon on the opposing surfaces and see if the action is freed up. However, best to wait for Michael. Let me get my camera out and take a look. Doug is an engineer and will also be able to help.

    Elliot

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