8x10 suggestions

[vintagepics]

Im currently shooting a Eastman View No. 1 with a "no name" 12 inch lens. The combination actually fits me, but im limited to shooting extended exposure since I don't have a lens with a shutter. I simply use the lens cap as the shutter for long exposures. However I would like to get into shooting some faster speed films during the day. My question is, should I simply buy a lens with a Copal shutter, or upgrade the whole system? Im no pro, and will probably never have a showing, or sell my stuff, so cost is a bit of a factor. I would love any suggestions. Thanks

[Rob Skeoch]

If you have to up-date the whole kit anyway... why not just start with the lens. Pick up a nice Fujinon 300mm C off ebay. You'll get great results on this camera, and can always use the lens down the road if you up-grade the whole thing.

[Tim Boehm]

The Fujinon C series are great. Lots of coverage and small. The A series is also great, but the 240 barely covers an 8x10, and the 180 doesn't. I assume you're looking for a used 8x10. Just make sure it's functional. I once got an 8x10 Century Universal because it was cheap. Sure was, I had to use bungie cords to hold the back on. Try posting some "want to buy" messages here and at the azo forum http://www.michaelandpaula.com/mp/azoforum/default.asp

[desertrat]

You can put a Packard shutter behind your no-name lens. That will help keep costs down, and will give more versatility to what might be a perfectly good barrel lens.

[Tim Boehm]

I should say that the Century Universal was a good camera, but the particular one I got had some rough years on it.

[vintagepics]

I’m very intrigued by the Packard set up. I have never heard of that. I think that would work with my lens, I would just have to figure out how to mount it to it. I have elements both behind, and in front of the lens board. The other question I would raise with the Packard is camera shake. I have not looked into it much, but it seems the Packard gets about a ¼ to 1/8 shutter speed, and the 2D is already a very shaky camera. Do you think that slow, clunky shutter would cause some lens shake?

I also gave some erroneous information. It’s an Eastman 2D. The No. 1 is my 5x7 plate camera.

[Leigh B]

The Fujinon C 300/8.5 may not be the best choice for 8x10 due to its small image circle of 380mm (8x10 film diagonal is 325mm).

That's one of the smallest ICs among 300mm lenses. Most are over 400mm. For example:
Fujinon A 300/9 @ 420mm
Nikkor W 300/5.6 @ 420mm
Rodenstock Sironar-N 300/5.6 @ 425mm
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar-W 300/5.6 @ 490mm

OTOH, if your work only requires modest shifts, like landscapes or portraiture, the C might be a good choice due to its small size.

- Leigh

[Jerevan]

Run what you got, says the eternal change man (looking at himself in the mirror). Get a packard shutter if you like the lens you have. If you google Kodak 2D Packard shutter and look at the photos, you'll see a few variations on how to get it working.

If you feel you need to change the lot, then go for a lens in a shutter. Just remember the 5.6 lenses are huge hulking beasts if you are hiking and moving the gear around.

[desertrat]

I’m very intrigued by the Packard set up. I have never heard of that. I think that would work with my lens, I would just have to figure out how to mount it to it. I have elements both behind, and in front of the lens board. The other question I would raise with the Packard is camera shake. I have not looked into it much, but it seems the Packard gets about a ¼ to 1/8 shutter speed, and the 2D is already a very shaky camera. Do you think that slow, clunky shutter would cause some lens shake?

I also gave some erroneous information. It’s an Eastman 2D. The No. 1 is my 5x7 plate camera.

Some (most ?) Packards have one instantaneous shutter speed, around 1/25 second. I don't have a Packard, but am thinking about getting one. Hopefully someone here will tell us how to identify the ones that have the instantaneous setting. About camera shake, I use a Seneca, and I'm pretty sure it's not a very rigid camera compared to modern designs. I have a setup to minimize camera shake that involves an inexpensive contractor tripod and a homemade adapter that allows me to attach a large wooden board securely to the top of the tripod using its built in 5/8-11 screw. The setup is very rigid, and supports the entire camera bed. I think it supports the camera better than an adapter you can buy that only supports a circular area a few inches in diameter around the tripod fitting on the camera.

I posted some pictures of the setup over at the LF forum:

http://www.largeformatphotography.in...read.php?81049

[ic-racer]

Im currently shooting a Eastman View No. 1 with a "no name" 12 inch lens. The combination actually fits me, but im limited to shooting extended exposure since I don't have a lens with a shutter. I simply use the lens cap as the shutter for long exposures. However I would like to get into shooting some faster speed films during the day. My question is, should I simply buy a lens with a Copal shutter, or upgrade the whole system? Im no pro, and will probably never have a showing, or sell my stuff, so cost is a bit of a factor. I would love any suggestions. Thanks

Something like the compact Fujinon C 300mm would be good for an old wooden camera. The coverage should match closely the limited range of movements available. I got the big Fujinon W 300 in copal 3 on my old Century and it was almost too heavy for that camera (see below). I had to bolt the lensboard to the camera to keep the lens from falling off. It caused me to buy a new 8x10 camera (as far as my wife knows) just so I could use the lens, but maybe that is the route you want to go also