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  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian View Post
    mp4 shutters are copal 1, they are self cocking press shutters that have 2 threaded sockets and a top speed of 1/125s
    the shutter WILL need a cla, they all do, unless he had his CLA before he sold it to you.
    ( add that 50-100$ + postage of your CLA isn't local to the price of whatever lens you buy. )

    <snip>

    if you NEED a shuttered lens, poke around for a symmar convertible, that might be another lens to look into, it is 2 lenses in 1, it cover 4x5 without a second
    thought it is paired - the 150 with a 265 -- worth the $$ way more than a polaroid tominon ...
    plus all of the other lenses mentioned have re-sale value is more than 35$ ... (people tend to buy these lenses for the shutter, not the lens,
    because a g claron screws right into the shutter and they tend to have a large image circle stopped way down .. )
    John, I think you're confusing a couple of shutters.

    The Polaroid MP-4 shutter (the face plate says just that, Polaroid MP-4) has a shutter release lever, one cable release socket and a "shutter open" lever (also called press focus lever) like regular cock-and-shoot Copal #1s. These shutters have no diaphragms so are useless for most purposes. I have one in front of me, I'm not making this up.

    Prontor Press #1 shutters for the Polaroid MP-3 system have no shutter release lever and two cable release sockets, one for tripping the shutter, the other for opening it for focusing. Some have diaphragms, others, e.g., as supplied for the 35/4 Eurygon, don't. This is from memory, I'm still not making it up.

    The Copal Polaroid shutter your (mine, too) 127/4.7 Tominon is in is a #1 press shutter, has one cable release socket and no provision (besides using the shutter's "T" speed setting) for opening it for focusing. My 127/4.7 Tominon is in my camera bag but I have one of the shutters with a 210/5.6 Fujinon in front of me.

    Copal Polaroids as sold with Tominon lenses in them (not front-mounted on) them aren't to the Compur/Copal/Prontor/Seiko #1 shutter standard. The standard tube length is 20.00 mm, Copal Polaroids have 22.00 mm tubes. In addition, they have limited maximum openings. The one I put my 210 Fuji in won't give full aperture with that lens. But they're cheap and lenses for #1 that are mounted in them still pass light and form images so their users are happy.

    One of my friends wrote a ray-tracing program and uses it to estimate lenses' performance. Eric Beltrando, visit his site www.dioptrique.info . When I discovered that my cheap Copal Polaroid shutter was too long and asked him what effect the extra 2 mm would have on a 6/4 plasmat's performance, he told me that in this class of lens performance is relatively insensitive to cell spacing and that the ill effects are far off axis. It was safe for me to use these lenses on my little 2x3 Graphics. Dagor types' performance is much more sensitive to cell spacing, so I shouldn't use my Beryls or my one dagor type G-Claron on Copal Polaroid shutters.

    Cheers,

    Dan

  2. #32

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    Nov 2003
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    I'm surprised that no one has mentioned Rodenstock Geronar, also sold as Caltar IIe, lenses. They were inexpensive new and really (usually) cheap used. Excellent lenses stopped down, available in at least three focal lengths; 150, 210, 300. They all allow for camera movements, which the Tominons will not.

    Dan's info re: the MP-4 shutter is spot on, the aperture is in the lens, not the shutter.

    JD

  3. #33

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    hi dan

    thanks for the info .. i always thought the mp shutters were the same,
    it just goes to show the more i think i know, the less i really know
    good to know about the cell spacing and gclarons, i usually use my 150 to do copy work
    on my speed graphic so i don't bother with a shutter ...

    i'll check out the site you linked to ...

    john

  4. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian View Post
    hi dan

    thanks for the info .. i always thought the mp shutters were the same,
    it just goes to show the more i think i know, the less i really know

    john
    Welcome to the club. Some years ago, during my annual review my supervisor set me up by praising my open-mindedness while solving a problem, then zinged me with the comment that once I'd made up my mind I closed it. He saw that as a weakness that needed work. I thought things over, decided he was right, and ever since then have tried to check, among other things, what I thought I knew ...

    Cheers,

    Dan

  5. #35

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    On e-bay, I have found lenses in shutters available from $25.00 and up. Makers from Baush&lomb to Zeiss. If you are not familiar with these lenses, here are a few... B&L Tessar, Schneider Xenar, Wollensak Velostigmat, Wollensak Raptar, Kodak Ektar, Ilex Paragon, and others. These lenses are all common for press type cameras. There is a much larger supply than demand (for now)

  6. #36

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    Apr 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by brofkand View Post
    I just got a Calumet 4x5 camera. This is an older style Calumet, it's gray with a smaller lens board than the black Calumets we used in school (they were co-branded as Cambo cameras). My calumet looks just like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CALUMET-4X5-...ht_5697wt_1386 .

    It came with a recessed Copal 0 lens board and 3 film holders, but no lens. In the meantime I am planning on just taping a pinhole onto the lens board, but I'd like to have a lens for the camera obviously.

    I want to spend as little as possible, hopefully under $100 for a lens (and lens board unless a recessed lens board would work). What can you recommend in the sub-$100 price category for a 135-210 (somewhere around there would be fine) lens with decent performance? Not necessarily looking for a tack-sharp, awesome lens (my budget won't allow that), but I would like a lens that would offer some good 11x14's with some 16x20's as well.

    Thanks!
    You might want to consider making a pinhole lens. Use the thinest needle you can find and about a 1 3/4 x 1 3/4 square cut from a Coke Can. Drill a small hole in the center of the square with the needle. Attach the square to the lensboard with black electrical tape and then start experimenting. Fast cheap way to get started with your 4x5
    Dave

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