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  1. #1

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    Lenses to go with

    Hi again,

    I am trying to get more gear of LF before some or most are gone or difficult to get, so i am here asking about what some lenses i should buy to be set or covered for most areas, i am open to all recommendations.

    For now i have the following lenses:

    - Schneider SA 72mm XL
    - Rodenstock APO Sironar-N 150mm
    - Optar Wollensack 162mm [on my Graphic cameras]

    * Yesterday ordered 135mm f4.7 Optar, and it has been processed for shipping, so just waiting.

    Now i am thinking much about some lenses such as 210 or 240, 90, 300, macro [120 or 180] ...etc, which one of those you highly recommend to use? Say for portraits and still life/macro things, i don't plan to use that 162 and/or 135 on my Shen Hao camera, so i want to have another lenses for non Graphic cameras, what do you suggest?

    If some will ask why or pointless to get more it is because i am very lazy trying to move lenses between different lens boards, you know that Graphics boards is almost different than Shen Hao [I think Linhof style] boards, and most lenses of Graphic not coming in Copal shutter, so i will keep some lenses for Graphic only and the rest is for Field LF camera.

    Not in rush for those lenses, and i will have all my time to decide on those lenses i mentioned above i am thinking about.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    jp498's Avatar
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    I'm quite fond of my fujinar 210/4.5 (tessar) for general purpose uses. It has a copal 3s or 3 shutter. The Nikkor 200ish mm is highly rated as well for general use.

    My tastes are different than general use though right now. I'm enjoying triplets and soft focus. Don't buy those just to sit on them; the softer lenses require regular use for their difficult learning curve.

  3. #3
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    a very nice portrait lens for 4x5 would be a 10" (250mm) or 12" (300mm) Commercial Ektar. The 10" would be better, as the Shen Hao doesn't have enough bellows draw to focus the 12" to portrait distances. If you want/need a long lens for your Shen Hao, Fuji made a very nice 300mm telephoto lens (Fujinon 300mm T f8) that is a true telephoto, so it requires about 8" (210mm) of bellows to focus it at infinity. It has a limited image circle, and using swings/tilts with a telephoto is not recommended because the telephoto lens design alters the lens' nodal point relative to the physical center of the lens, so the effects are unpredictable. But telephoto lenses are often more compact and lighter than their traditional design equivalents, so the trade-off is often worth it.

  4. #4

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    I concur with FlyingCamera onm the 10 - 12 inch lens for portrait work, and would only suggest one more... a 90mm. It may be easier to use than the 72 you already have.

    But my gut reaction to your question was to suggest you quit buying gear and shoot with what you have since that will really drive your analysis of what else you need.

  5. #5

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    I used 150mm, wasn't happy with it at all for outdoor architecture and even indoors, so that i wanted something much wide, i saw many results from 72 so i bought it, didn't try it yet but i know it is what i look for, 90 will be more use maybe and it is in my list to buy, but i will do that later and not in rush for it as long i didn't use 72mm much enough yet, so i can wait for 90mm.

    The only lens i keep thinking about now is 210mm, but i think maybe i should go with longer, 240-300 could be the best choice over 150-210, and your comments showing me that those long lenses are standard for portraits, so maybe i should pass that 210 too and look at longer glasses, later i can add 90 and 210 together.

    Good about LF from what i read is whatever brand i go with all will be high quality, it is like there is not bad quality LF lenses if clean used or NEW.

  6. #6

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    hi tareq

    get a pair of schnieder symmar convertibles
    a 150 / 265 and 210 / 370 ..
    front cell off they take a bit more than the 265 + 370 to focus at infinity but
    they are nice plasmat design portrait lenses ...
    silver magnets, trickle tanks sold
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    PM me for details

  7. #7

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    It seems like you would want shorter lenses for macro purposes on 4x5. With a 180, you'd need 360 mm of bellows to get to 1:1, and I don't think any Graphic has that, though the Shen Hao might. You might want to experiment with the lenses you've got first, and see how you feel about their macro performance in practice; you may not need anything new.

    -NT
    Nathan Tenny
    San Diego, CA, USA

    The lady of the house has to be a pretty swell sort of person to put up with the annoyance of a photographer.
    -The Little Technical Library, _Developing, Printing, And Enlarging_

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian View Post
    hi tareq

    get a pair of schnieder symmar convertibles
    a 150 / 265 and 210 / 370 ..
    front cell off they take a bit more than the 265 + 370 to focus at infinity but
    they are nice plasmat design portrait lenses ...
    Good choices, i will look at those.

    Thank you very much!

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by ntenny View Post
    It seems like you would want shorter lenses for macro purposes on 4x5. With a 180, you'd need 360 mm of bellows to get to 1:1, and I don't think any Graphic has that, though the Shen Hao might. You might want to experiment with the lenses you've got first, and see how you feel about their macro performance in practice; you may not need anything new.

    -NT
    I tested 150 and its macro is not good, and this lens showed me which lenses i want to go with, either shorter or longer than 150, there are some applications i can use 150 for, but mostly what i do will go either with shorter wider lenses or longer.

  10. #10

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    I try to keep it simple. I have a Nikkor 120, Schnieder 210, Fuji 300tele and an old 135 that someone gave me. I don't use the 135 too much. They are used on a Toyo 45A field camera for which I have the rear extension accessory when extra bellows length is needed for close-up. Remember that you need to compensate exposure for bellows extensions so keeping track for different camera/lens combinations is something I would rather not do. What I did was to do the math for each of the first three lenses I mentioned by f/stop changes and marked the compensation on a small retractable ruler with a different color permanent marker. When shooting I just "measure" with the tape from the lensboard to the film plane and read the closest compensation color coded for that lens. I have happily forgotten the equation --- one less thing to store in my memory bank.

    http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

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