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  1. #21

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    Tom. Just a suggestion but you might want to quit while you are already behind. That shutter appears to be a real 'fuster cluck".

  2. #22

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    Thanks, but the shutter is actually clean as a whistle and on-speed now. Before, I had nothing. Now I have accuracy from 5-10% up to 100. There is no 400, and I have to put it on 400 to get 200. but before, 400 was 130, 100 was 65, 1/2 was .702, and 1 second was .800. The only speed that worked was 1/50, which was dead-on, and I left it alone.
    On top of that, the front lens element was so full of cleaning marks that it was worthless. I liberated a beautiful front element out of another 135 Optar where somebody had shattered element #2.
    Now I have something I can use with confidence.

    I don't give up. I can repair ANYTHING.
    Last edited by Tom1956; 10-08-2013 at 02:49 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #23

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    Well... I commend you for persistence, and if you don't need 400 then you are good-to-go.

  4. #24
    Vaughn's Avatar
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    What's a '400'? I use a 'T' most of the time, the other times I use the '1' or maybe the '2'...
    At least with LF landscape, a bad day of photography can still be a good day of exercise.

  5. #25

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    I thought you used a derby.

  6. #26
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    Yes, I had a supermatic that the 1/2 or 1/10 was off on after getting the rest of the speeds from 1/100 and slower in. I had slightly over filed the position so I used a Weller 8200N and put a little silver solder on the segment and redressed with a file. More than a few thousands may flake off. Adding brass with a brazing rod and torch might work also if one works quickly. The major problem is the dial distorting from the high heat of a soldering gun/iron or torch.

    As for speeds above 1/100~1/125 they are controlled by the booster spring(s). I have tried reforming the ends of the booster spring so that it would compress more with no significant effect on the speeds. I have yet to make a new spring to see if that gets the speed up to par.

    As for the speed tester I use which is similar to yours I have found it inaccurate above 1/250 second shutter speed. I have taken some known good shutters and made equivalent exposures at several speeds in addition to the fast speeds in question with an 8x10 gray card evenly lit from about 10-15 feet in the center of the frame on ISO 400 B&W film. The gray card had the same density/tone throughout set of exposures, all film processed in the same daylight tank at the same time, scanned at the same manual settings and if read with a densitometer would be within a .1 unit of one another. The tester showed the speeds to be 1/2 stop slow at 1/250 to 1 stop slow at 1/1000. I have tested other shutters that tested 1 stop slow at 1/200 and 2 stops slow at 1/400 to have exposures on ISO 400 film to be significantly over exposed at those speeds.

  7. #27

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    I am convinced that on this Graphex-X I've been working on is suffering from a completely different problem than the cam that I actually addressed. As I was rebuilding the shutter I noticed upon inspection that the bushing in the main lever assembly was scored, and that the post it turns on was worn down and scored. The best analogy would be "ring ridge" in a worn gasoline engine. Because of this wear, the main lever assembly is allowed to "cock", or bind under the intense spring pressure. This binding of course, causing slowed shutter speed. So in essence, I only addressed the problem and not the cause. But even if I had the tools and resources to fabricate a new main lever bushing, it would be of little good because the post it rides on would still be worn and uneven. There comes a time when a device is so worn out that repairs are to be considered temporary. This worn condition explains in my mind why achieving the 400 speed would be impossible. By then, the booster spring, along with the regular 2 other springs causes such a bind that it's a wonder it could move at all.
    All in all, a temporary repair, but at age 56, anything is temporary to me. I , myself, am getting more temporary quick.

  8. #28
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pstake View Post
    Is it off topic to ask if this holds true for TLRs? I'm talking specifically about mine (of course), which has a Compur shutter.
    It's exactly the same, you can adjust the speed before or after cocking, except for some Compur (and similar) shutters 35mm, folding 120's (and 127's), TLR, Large format.

  9. #29
    pstake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Grant View Post
    It's exactly the same, you can adjust the speed before or after cocking, except for some Compur (and similar) shutters 35mm, folding 120's (and 127's), TLR, Large format.
    I do not understand this comment ... should I or should I not adjust the shutter speed after cocking the shutter?

    It's a prewar Ikoflex with a Compur shutter.

  10. #30
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pstake View Post
    I do not understand this comment ... should I or should I not adjust the shutter speed after cocking the shutter?

    It's a prewar Ikoflex with a Compur shutter.
    It's a rimset Compur you can adjust the speeds after cocking, the exception is the Compur Rapid with the extra spring for the high speed you can't move up or down from the top setting while the shutter's cocked.

    Ian

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