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  1. #31
    wiltw's Avatar
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    I have a Horseman monorail that weighs about 12 lbs. I have put it on top of a Bogen 3036 tripod (very sturdy), atop a Bogen 3038 ballhead. It is admittedly a handful to position the camera at the right angle, and I would prefer to use a geared head. However, it has been a very workable combination for commercial product photography.

  2. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by LJH View Post
    Ball heads with LF is a horrible combination, IMO.
    Absolutely.

    Use a Ries with built in top that tilts or 2 section leg Berlbach. These are the top two. No metal tripods. No ball heads or heads of any kind.

  3. #33
    alex gard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjbecker View Post
    For LF I just mounted straight to the tripod. For mf I use a hasslblad QR that mounted straight to the tripod. I've found if the tripod has a spinning center column it's very easy and fast to mount the camera.

    I will also normally position the camera so the lens and the front leg are pointing in the same direction. It makes it easer for leveling.

    I've yet to ever have a situation where I needed a head. Yes some would have been faster to setup but never needed one. I like the extra stabality, as I'm normally shooting in the seconds range.
    i was doing this when I first got the sinar but then thought I was being ridiculous and got a sinar tripod head which weighs a ton and adds quite a bit of extra weight to carry and a I really don't think it adds that much difference seeing as it only tilts and swivels so if I need to do critical levelling sometimes I need to adjust the tripod legs where the head doesn't accommodate that movement nor the camera.

    perhaps I will revert back to using the tripod without a head at all. the tripod originally had a pistol grip ball head but that was not very good at all and I don't think it was meant for the weight of the f2, the Hasselblad im not so sure I think it will be better to have a head

  4. #34

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    Haven't used a ball head with my zone VI 4x5, but love my geared bogen head.

  5. #35
    kintatsu's Avatar
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    I have a 30+ year old Linhof tripod and pan/tilt head. It weighs a bit, but worth the extra effort. The pan/tilt handle folds down by loosening it and rotates all over for easy use. The only issue I had was adding a 1/4 20 mounting screw, as it only has the 3/8".

    My prior tripods wouldn't support my 4x5 very well, heck they wouldn't even support the RB-67 if I tilted it.

  6. #36
    norm123's Avatar
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    LF and ballhead....hum hum

    At the begining, I tried my 068 Manfrotto ballhead for my Sinar F-1. For me, it was difficult. Sure, you can reframing with rise/fall and shift but I was nervous that everything falls. Any way, I change for a Gitzo
    1370M 3-ways on the same legs (Manfrotto 475B). It's perfect for me.

  7. #37

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    Ball heads are the root of all evil when it comes to keeping anything like a big monorail stable. It's like trying to catch a tuna on a leader of
    4 lb monofilament intended for small stream trout. I prefer not to use any kind of tripod head with view cameras, but when I do, it's going to
    be some kind of solid low-profile pan/tilt device. I prefer Ries wooden tripods, though I do also have a couple nice carbon fiber ones for long
    hikes.

  8. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by Light Guru View Post
    I disagree I use this tripod and have had no issues using my 4x5 on it.
    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...ipod_Legs.html



    Considering you have given us no useful information about the tripods for us to go off of nobody will be able to properly answer your questions.

    Model numbers?
    Links to the post?
    A leveling ball and a ballhead like the OP is referring to are utterly different. I paid $50 for a used Marchioni Tiltall 25 or so years ago and never ever even considered another tripod for 4x5 and smaller. Ballheads for LF are indeed very bad news.

  9. #39

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    I find the Manfrotto ball head does not work below -10C. If the camera is level it works, but if you tilt up or down the stress on the system causes it to slowly shift. The key here is if you tilt the camera the moment arm causes more force and at lower temperatures the friction on the ball head seems to reduce. Thus, the camera slowly shifts.

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