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  1. #11

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    I agree with the eye-ballers. I refer to the grid on the ground glass and with the cross-hairs on my 2 1/4. If you don't have a grid you could print some references on transparent film and just overlay it on the ground glass when setting up. Best to remove it for focusing.

    http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by analoguey View Post
    Got it. So something like this, or much closer in the inner circle?

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    Well, how far off level does half a bubble out of the circle represent? A precision level has this calibrated.
    The trouble is, I don't know your camera, or how to zero those levels. You can use a torpedo level to get them closer, but then you could just use the torpedo on the camera itself to level it - the torpedo, if a good one such as a Stabila, would be far more sensitive and accurate than those wee tiny bubbles. Actually that's not quite fair, the round bubbles can be decent if well made. But they're still no substitute for a proper level, which you don't really need very often.

  3. #13
    analoguey's Avatar
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    Hm, okay. I will see if there's an alternate spirit level available here, or else I'll just see what it comes up with. I suppose this probably wouldn't even matter for table top photography. Maybe just architectural then?

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  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by analoguey View Post
    Hm, okay. I will see if there's an alternate spirit level available here, or else I'll just see what it comes up with. I suppose this probably wouldn't even matter for table top photography. Maybe just architectural then?

    Sent from my LT26i using Tapatalk
    Not even a tiny little bit. As for architecture, if you are photographing buildings which are perfectly plumb and level, you can spend a lot of time leveling the camera to match the building - you'll have to go over the building first of course, to be certain it's plumb and level. Or you can spend a few extra seconds lining things up with the grid on the GG - the results will be indistinguishable, and if the building isn't plumb and level, the levels on the camera are worse than useless, so you'll have to learn to use a grid anyway. Paint the things black and forget about them.

  5. #15
    Terry Christian's Avatar
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    I agree with E. The camera should be reasonably level/plumb with itself, and you should indeed use the levels on the camera and tripod to get yourself to a decent starting point, but it's what's on the ground glass that counts, as that's what the film will see. Obsess over that -- not over the preliminary set-up.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry Christian View Post
    I agree with E. The camera should be reasonably level/plumb with itself, and you should indeed use the levels on the camera and tripod to get yourself to a decent starting point, but it's what's on the ground glass that counts, as that's what the film will see. Obsess over that -- not over the preliminary set-up.
    Actually I should have mentioned this before. My heavy tripod (for 8x10) has two tiny tubular levels at right angles, and I do use these to get the head of the tripod reasonably level when setting up - this can make a difference with a heavy camera on a ball bearing pan head meant for a newsreel camera. It's just about the only time I do use a level of any sort, for all I know the one on my 4x5 has dried up.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by E. von Hoegh View Post
    Not even a tiny little bit. As for architecture, if you are photographing buildings which are perfectly plumb and level,

  8. #18

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    New construction is of course quite a bit better but not perfect. Some old buildings are so out of plumb and level it's ridiculous.

  9. #19
    Dr Croubie's Avatar
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    I noticed the other day (on my OmegaView 45D) that I could get the top bubbles level, but then I spun it around 90 degrees on the tripod head pan and it was off (I've got the upside-down A-S Monoball P0, pan on top of ballhead).
    Turns out that there's some sideways-play in the clamp that clamps twixt the tripod head and the rail.
    Easiest way to calibrate is to set all the standards to default, no shift/tilt/swing. Take the camera off and level the tripod head (I've got a circular-bubble on my A-S clamp). Put the camera on and then level the top bubbles using aforementioned clamp. Now I know that the top bubbles are square and true to the tripod-head bubble (at least, until I move that clamp or change rails).
    An awful lot of electrons were terribly inconvenienced in the making of this post.

  10. #20
    analoguey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Croubie View Post
    I noticed the other day (on my OmegaView 45D) that I could get the top bubbles level, but then I spun it around 90 degrees on the tripod head pan and it was off (I've got the upside-down A-S Monoball P0, pan on top of ballhead).
    Turns out that there's some sideways-play in the clamp that clamps twixt the tripod head and the rail.
    Easiest way to calibrate is to set all the standards to default, no shift/tilt/swing. Take the camera off and level the tripod head (I've got a circular-bubble on my A-S clamp). Put the camera on and then level the top bubbles using aforementioned clamp. Now I know that the top bubbles are square and true to the tripod-head bubble (at least, until I move that clamp or change rails).
    I think I have the very same camera- Toyos and Omegas are just rebranded items, aren't they?
    I did try taking the camera off and leveling but it proved quite impossible to do that. And yes the tripod clamp has quite a bit of play - doesn't make sense why it does.
    I'll try wedging-in a piece of tissue to firm things up.

    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Gales View Post
    New construction is of course quite a bit better but not perfect. Some old buildings are so out of plumb and level it's ridiculous.
    Haha.
    How does one measure btw? Does that old weight tied to string thing work best?
    Btw wouldn't successive road-work mean that buildings are out-of-whack because of that? Or maybe moved because of the ground beneath them shifting, ever so lightly?



    Quote Originally Posted by E. von Hoegh View Post
    Actually I should have mentioned this before. My heavy tripod (for 8x10) has two tiny tubular levels at right angles, and I do use these to get the head of the tripod reasonably level when setting up - this can make a difference with a heavy camera on a ball bearing pan head meant for a newsreel camera. It's just about the only time I do use a level of any sort, for all I know the one on my 4x5 has dried up.
    Ah I see. I am assuming by heavy camera you mean something much heavier than a Toyo View45/F.



    Thank you all for the information. I'm feeling much better about the utility of my new purchase then!


    Sent from my LT26i using Tapatalk

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