Spontaneous Shooting

[Donald Qualls]

Another thread originally on this topic was closed because it turned into a flame fest of personal insults and politics -- but the premise, originally (I think), had some promise.

No, I'm not interested in getting a Leica; even if I could afford one, I have a couple other 35 mm cameras and do in fact shoot without meter or tripod most of the time -- I can gauge Sunny 16 well enough, in enough range of light (at least on negative film), that I really only need a meter when it's too dim to hand hold ISO 400 or when I'm under artificial light (or when I'm trying to apply Zone System, but I can't afford a spot meter right now, either). However -- the large format equipment I own and use, a couple 'tween-wars German plate cameras, was designed to be hand held like a press camera. Focusing can be done by scale, and some plate cameras were even fitted with Kalart coupled rangefinder; negatives don't have less latitude because they're large, and the Fomapan 100 I shoot most in 9x12 cm is the same emulsion as that sold in 35 mm and 120.

Now, I know Ole Tjugen hand holds 5x7 and even 8x10 on occasion, and we're not talking a Hobo here -- but how many other folks use large format cameras (like press cameras, but also including field cameras) hand held? What kind of subjects do you shoot this way? How is your ratio of good shots to those with too much motion blur to use?

[David A. Goldfarb]

Nicholas Nixon has done some great work with an 8x10" camera on a tripod that retains a spontaneous feel.

Here is a handheld series I've posted before, all with a Linhof Tech V, Norman flash, Efke PL100 at EI 200 in Acufine, Symmar 210 convertible mostly at f:8, 1/15 sec for a little extra motion blur. All 4x5" with Grafmatics--

http://www.echonyc.com/~goldfarb/halloween/

Even without flash, I've found a pretty steady stance with the Technika. I usually use Tri-X at EI 640 in Acufine for available light. Of course a tripod will always produce a sharper image with any camera, but it's not always possible to get the shot that way.

If the light is really low, like in this theatre shot, then subject motion is usually a bigger issue than camera motion, so I might burn a lot of film, and if I get 1 out of 10, that's good. Here, my sister is the sharp one, so the subject motion worked in my favor (Tech V, Tri-X/Acufine, 150/4.5 Xenar at f:4.5, 1/15 sec.)--

[Claire Senft]

Is this at all like drive by shooting? My personal belief is that if one sticks to a single film and developer that he/she with experience can get to be very capable in determining an exposure that is more suitable than may be achieved with auto-exposure.

[Paul Howell]

I hand a hold a Crown with a coupled 135 a lot. I use Tri X at 3200 or push in MicX or HC 100 to 800 quite often. The Crown and Speed works quite well hand held, the Crown weights less than the Speed and has a shutter release coupled to the lens. The focal plan shutter on the speed allows you to shoot up to 1000, and late models have the leaf shutter with a 1000th of a second. Hand holding a field camera may work for some folks, but holding a view camera, hats off if they pull it off.

Paul

[Jeremy]

I handheld a B&J 5x7 with 12" lens a while back. The neg is developed but not proofed yet....

[rbarker]

On one hand, I don't have an LF camera suitable for hand holding - at least not in my hands. But, I've often thought it would be fun to get a press-style camera for quick LF shots. The series of 4x5 images of the Hindenburg disaster are good examples of the potential, I think. The news photographer, whose name escapes me at the moment, got off at least 3 shots during the 10 seconds or so it took for the Hindenburg to burn. Sometimes, the content of the image is far more important than strict technical quality.

On the other hand, I've been known to shoot my M6 at 1 sec at f/1.0 - with the aid of a monopod.

[Jorge]

Is this at all like drive by shooting? My personal belief is that if one sticks to a single film and developer that he/she with experience can get to be very capable in determining an exposure that is more suitable than may be achieved with auto-exposure.

Exactly! wether it be 35 mm or LF if you use the same thing all of the time, just by doing it over and over you start seeing that your exposures and development times are always very similar and consistent. I still use a meter but I dont get stark raving mad if I drive 4 hours and realize I forgot the meter.

As to LF hand held I used a Crown Graphic with cams for prefocusing. It was fun and the negatives came out pretty good, I just found it was not for me.

[roteague]

My Toyo 45AII has a hand strap, but I've tried using it that way. As for a light meter, I generally carry two; I wouldn't be caught shooting without one. Then again, Velvia has a lot less latitude and can't be controlled in the developing process like B&W. I also use split neutral density filters quite often.

[herb]

When I was in college in a previous eon, I shot weddings with a 4x5 crown, #2 flash bulbs, two sided holders and film packs. that was more than 50 years ago, used Royal Pan Film by Kodak, can't remember the film speed, I think around 100, certainly not fast by today's standards. You have to be REALLY familiar with what you are doing for that kind of work.

I carry a Crown with a rollfilm back on it, orange filter on it in the car.

The Hobo will allow hand held 8x10 shots.

[David A. Goldfarb]

On the other hand, I've been known to shoot my M6 at 1 sec at f/1.0 - with the aid of a monopod.

This one's with my Voigtlander Perkeo II, 1 sec. at f:3.5 - with the aid of a street sign--