notching film holders
A few years back, I read an article about introducing small notches into film holders so you could identify the filmholders by looking at the developed negative. Does anyone remember where this article was printed?
I have no idea where the article was printed, but the concept is pretty simple. Just notch the flap at the bottom of each side of each film holder in a pattern that makes sense to you, and you'll be able to figure out which film was in which holder.
I use a system where notches on the left are counted as 10, one in the very middle is a 5, and notches on the right are single numbers. I can get up to 49 holder sides marked with this system using nothing more than a Dremel tool with a cutting disk. If I need to go beyond that number at some point, I'll just add a wider notch to the left hand edge to count as 50.
Film is cheap. Opportunities are priceless.
page 278 in the book 'way beyond monochrome' by lambrecht and woodhouse. isbn o 86343 354 5
Originally Posted by Mongo
method uses marks filed from the sheetfilm holder so that they are exposed. consider it binary notation so that just a few notches can represent a number greater than the number of notches.
About half-way down the page there is a description of notching the holders.
Too many Chiefs not enough Indians.....
thanks for that - it is a tidy alternative to binary.
Originally Posted by Dimitri
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
I just took my oldest filmholder and using an X-acto X-153 "v-shaped" gouge, I notched the sides. This worked really well for my Riteway holders and it produced a single "chip" that was easily removed. (I have enough trouble with dust as it is without using the dremel tool.) I will let you know how it works out.
Get 3 needle files a round one a "v" shape one and a thin one. Think of of then as the roman numeral system. Thin file is "I","V" shape is five' round one is ten.
On the flap at the bottom of the holder, file in about a 1/16 of an inch with the proper file or files depending on the number you are putting on that holder.
Well done. I would never be able to do that (hand not that steady) and it would be difficult to remove the part along with a part of my finger and the associated blood stain.
Originally Posted by blaughn
However, I've been planing to notch a set of holders, not because I'm worried about any leakage, but more for numbering purposes.
As I said, I'm not that good with the gouging knife, so I'll be using my set of needle files to give V, U and square notches (1, 5, 10). I'm not very keen on the I notch since I could confuse it with the square one.
As for the dust and filings, if you start the motion from the holder and move outwards, then most of these should fall on the table and not inside the holder.
[gadget mode on/]
Just something that came to my mind now. Could make sence (and then again... )
If you are still worried about dirt getting in you can also use a welding iron (the one used for fine work). There is a gas operated kit (very cheap) that has something like 4 or 5 different tips (straight, round, knife edged, etc). All one has to do is let it heat up and then press it lightly against the inside of the flap. If done quickly it should not stick on or leave a raised edge.
Havent tried it , but I think I will on one holder and see how it goes. If it works OK, it should be faster than the needle files
[gadget mode off/]
Too many Chiefs not enough Indians.....
I tried the soldering gun with some success. If you have one of those quick heat-up guns, on many of them you can replace the soldering tip. I used a stiff gauge of piano wire and made a pointed end that allowed very precise application. It worked well but the gouge worked better for me and was quicker.
Film Decal TABS
Rather than notching holders, I've used something else that seems to work really nice. They're called Film Decal TABS and were sold by a company called Photo-Mart in NYC. They were small numbers that you could glue into the recesses in most film holders (the Fidelity and Lisco holders have the needed recess). As this is an older item no longer made, I made copies of it using Ilford ortho film, and cut it up, keeping the original intact. I'm attaching a scan of the tabs, along with the envelope it came in, with the instructions.