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  1. #1
    noseoil's Avatar
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    LF Packard shutters

    Jim's thread about LF bokeh has raised a question I need an answer to, about the Packard shutters. I got a Nikon enlarging lens for my 8x10 (19") and have to use a lens cap for exposures. Don't want to pay three times the cost of the lens to have it mounted on a Copal 3, so the obvious choice is a Packard.

    After reading a bit about the #6 syncro, I still have a question about its function. It seems that speeds can be regulated by the bulb's pressure, but I'm not sure how this works. Is it the duration, speed or some other manner of bulb manipulation in which the shutter can be regulated to change from a "normal" speed of 1/25 of a second to something different?

    I'm thinking a #6 will work well for my application, but I will need speeds between 1/25 and T to get some shots. Thanks, tim

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    Supposedly if you squeeze the bulb with less force it takes a little longer for the shutter to open/close. Better people then me claim it can be done in a repeatable way. I haven't developed the knack but then I haven't put much effort into it.

    #6 with flash contacts? So does that mean you'll be using a flash?

  3. #3
    jimgalli's Avatar
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    Hi Tim,
    The Packard will have a hole near the top with a nail like shaft that goes in and out. When the shaft is "in" the shutter makes a complete cycle. This is supposed to be 1/20th sec but in my case I checked and it was more like 1/8, but never the less, repeatable.

    When the shaft is "out" the shutter simply opens on pressure and closes on the reverse "suction". This is very easy to control with the bulb and if you have another shutter to listen to for several cycles like a nikon fm or even a late copal, you can cycle the bulb for 1/4 1/2 1 2+++ whatever. Much more than that and you'd just use the cap anyway.

    Very simple, very useable.
    He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep..to gain that which he cannot lose. Jim Elliot, 1949

    http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com

  4. #4
    noseoil's Avatar
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    Jim, thanks for the explanation. Sounds so easy we can't possibly mess this up.

    Nick, figured if I'm going to buy one, might as well have all the bells & whistles. tim

  5. #5
    smieglitz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noseoil
    ...I'm thinking a #6 will work well for my application, but I will need speeds between 1/25 and T to get some shots. Thanks, tim
    If longer speeds would work you could use the bulb exposure in conjunction with neutral density filters to arrive at a workable combination. Shooting with my Verito lenses at f/4-5.6 and ISO 400 speed film outdoors, I'm using a 2.0 (- 6.67 stops) or 3.0 (-10 stops) ND filter depending on the sky conditions to get a managable time exposure.

    Can't see a damn thing on the GG, but it works.

    Joe

  6. #6
    noseoil's Avatar
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    Joe, what filter setup are you using? This is a rather large lens and I don't have anything close for ND filters. tim

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by noseoil
    Joe, what filter setup are you using? This is a rather large lens and I don't have anything close for ND filters. tim
    If your work is in B&W, perhaps a contrast filter would suffice with speed 25 film. A good source for high quality, inexpensive government surplus filters is www.surplusshed.com They have filters such 4", 4.25", 5", 6.5", 8.5" and others. These are largely recon camera filters. Sometimes they hav big nd filters, too. Feel free to write them. Fred will probably answer.

    If money is no issue... well, ask.

  8. #8
    medform-norm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjstafford
    If your work is in B&W, perhaps a contrast filter would suffice with speed 25 film. A good source for high quality, inexpensive government surplus filters is www.surplusshed.com They have filters such 4", 4.25", 5", 6.5", 8.5" and others. These are largely recon camera filters. Sometimes they hav big nd filters, too. Feel free to write them. Fred will probably answer.

    If money is no issue... well, ask.
    Did you look into using old curtain shutters as well, such as Thornton Pickard made them? It's pretty easy to replace the shutter curtain (which is necessary in all but a few of these oldies) and you'd be left with a working shutter on which you can set the speed with a small wheel. They came in different size and can be used both behind or in front of the lens.

    Regards, Norm

  9. #9
    David H. Bebbington's Avatar
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    For what it's worth, I discovered a product the other day which I didn't know existed and which fulfils a longstanding need - it is an adapter for Cokin XPro filters with 4 pinch screws instead of a threaded ring. Just right for several of my 8x10" lenses which have no filter thread or inch-size threads, and would be very useful with ND filters, since you can slide filters in and out much faster than unscrewing them.

  10. #10
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Another option is a front mounted shutter like the "Luc" shutter. If you check the latest _View Camera_ magazine (May/June 2005), there a number of these pictured in Kerry Thalmann's article. I have one for the 360mm Heliar, and I just had Frank Marshman add flash sync to it, so I'll be using it as well with my other big lenses in Studio shutters, when I want to use them with strobes.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

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