Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 71,813   Posts: 1,581,589   Online: 875
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: old metal

  1. #1
    darinwc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    2,089
    Images
    159

    old metal

    how hard is it to restore the metal parts on old view cameras?
    i've seen some that look badly rusted.
    Screws and bolts can be replaced easily, but things like racks and pinions im worried about.

    Anyone have any experience?

    Those restored graflexes look so nice when they let the wood show.

  2. #2
    resummerfield's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Alaska
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    1,298
    I’ve had very good luck soaking badly rusted small parts in a phosphoric acid solution overnight. It removes all traces of rust, but it also removes any coating or plating, and leaves the metal with a grey finish. A better idea may be to send those parts out to a plating service, and let them remove the rust and restore the original plating, whether chrome, nickel, etc.
    —Eric

  3. #3
    metod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Montreal
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    102
    Images
    10
    Darin, what comes to my mind is to sandblast those rusted parts. This method can take away all the grime and rust without disturbing the original shape of the metal. As for the rack, it might be well embedded in the wood and hard to remove. There you would have probably no other choice than carefully check the gears with small sharp file or similar. Maybe others will have a better idea....

    Metod

  4. #4
    darinwc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    2,089
    Images
    159
    phosphoric acid solution: will that work as well with steel and brass?

  5. #5
    JLP
    JLP is offline
    JLP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Oregon
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,598
    Images
    19
    Just a suggestion but glass blasting is less violent than sand blasting. If the sand is to course you end up having nothing left.

    jan

  6. #6
    Aggie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    So. Utah
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,925
    Images
    6
    Rock tumbler with walnuts or such medium. Doesn't change the shape and re-works the integrity of the metal after being used a lot. It also shines it up real well in the process. Nothing else to do.
    Non Digital Diva

  7. #7
    darinwc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    2,089
    Images
    159
    sorry but I dont have any equipment to sand/glass blast.

    Regarding rock tumblers: i've used my chromega motor base and a cofee can as a rock tumbler before. Works great and is much more reliable than those cheap toys.
    But walnuts???

  8. #8
    Aggie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    So. Utah
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,925
    Images
    6
    Go to Rio Grande metal catalog, and they have all sorts of mediums to polish rework metals with. They abe plastic beads, glass beads, crushed corncobs, crushed walnuts, and steel and stainless steel shot. If not there try Frei and borel in Berkeley/Oakland they have a more user freindly website. Just search under polishing. The coffee can works well. In fact you can use sand in it in a more gentle method than sand blasting. It is what they used (not coffee cans though but wooden tubs) in the middle ages to polish chain mail. Put sand in a container and roll it around for a few hours. Labor was cheap back then.
    Non Digital Diva

  9. #9
    resummerfield's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Alaska
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    1,298
    Quote Originally Posted by darinwc
    phosphoric acid solution: will that work as well with steel and brass?
    I use a DuPont product, used in automotive painting as a metal prep. Look at Napa. It works great for brass and steel, but monitor the immersion time carefully for brass.
    —Eric

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    327
    Images
    11
    I have restored several old woodworking machines. The simplest and fastest method for cleaning all the rust, corrosion (and sometimes a little paint) off the various parts and fasteners was to use a fine wire wheel on a grinder or buffer. It took off the rust and left a polished surface. You can always use spray laquer on any parts when finished to shine them up further and prevent future corrosion, but this is rarely necessary.

    My experience with soaking parts is that I get uneven results and I still have to wire wheel them anyway to clean off all the gunk that is generated and polish them up.

    A very fine wire wheel costs about $5, I think.

    You will learn to hold parts at odd angles. Pliers help too on smaller parts. A small hand held brass or aluminum brush (looks like a toothbrush) helps get into tight spots that the edge of the wheel cannot reach.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin