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  1. #11
    Jim Jones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Rural NW Missouri
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    Quote Originally Posted by djkloss
    . . . Is this anything that can be solved with a hood (what/how big) or do I need a modern coated lens?

    Thanks!

    Dorothy
    The best lens hood is square, and blocks almost all light outside of the picture area. The larger the hood, the better it can eliminate flare. I sometimes fabricate one from mat board that slips behind the shutter rather than attach to the front of the lens. It is long enough to almost cut into the field of view:
    [IMG]
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails LensHood.gif  

  2. #12
    djkloss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Erie, Pa
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    Thanks guys! I rigged up two hoods with rubber bands - kind a like o-rings to hold in place. The bigger one is from my 35mm camera.

    Love the artwork btw!

    Hope this works...

    Now go and enjoy the rest of the holiday.......I'm takin' the ol' camera on a hike! When I get back I'll try the square one.

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Not too expensive is the Flare Buster (www.flarebuster.com) which runs $29.95 for just the bendable metal arm with binder clips on either end. You attach the arm to your camera and a card in the clip on the other end.

    Bend the arm into general position to shade the lens with the card, check through your ground glass to make sure it isn't getting in the way. If it is, move it out of the way while looking through the ground glass.

    Silly thing paid for itself very quickly with savings on film that wasn't spoiled by my efforts to hold the dark slide, or my hat, or my hand in the way.

    I purchased both the model with a hot shoe adaptor and the one with the binder clips. I broke the hot shoe version with a couple weeks (very weak connection between the hot shoe adaptor and bendable arm). Much better is the binder clip version. They sell that version with a bunch of accessories for $35.95. If you don't want the whole kit, I recommend just getting the FB-99XXL for $29.95.

    I find the binder clip version attaches nicely to my Lee filter holder, my front standard, or in a pinch, it also can be attached to the camera bed or quick release plate on my camera. Certainly not as inexpensive as a cardboard arrangement, but very easy to use.

  4. #14

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    Mar 2005
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    Dorothy, thanks for posting that second image. My little Ektars don't do anything nearly that horrible when shooting against the light and neither has a lens hood. Dismantle your lens and clean it. If there's haze inside the front cell, its time for a new lens.

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Dorothy - It makes my day to hear of someone shooting with a Graphic. At some point you will likely want to get an additional camera with more movements and extension, but don't sell the Graphic. There is a whole new interest in handheld 4X5 shooting on the various LF forums.

    It is too bad the flare or intruding darkslide ruined the shot. It very much looks like one worth reshooting when you get the flare under control. As others have said, look through the lens toward a bright light and you may find haze. It may be cleanable by unscrewing the front and rear lens cells.

    One limitation of the 127mm Ektar is the small image circle - there is almost no room for movements. I've used maximum front rise on an Anniversary Speed with a 127mm Ektar and the upper corners were black. This isn't to say the 127mm is a "bad" lens, just be aware of what it can and can't do. You are probably going to want to start shopping for an additional lens, but that will be another involved topic.

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