Shooting Infared film in LF and ULF size...suggestions?
I recently picked up a few boxes of MACO 820c Infared film in 11x14 size. However, I have never shot with infared film before...so I need some suggestions to get me started.
First off, I need to know what speed to rate the film at, and what filter is recomended to use with this particular film.
Second, I remember learning you need to change your focus when shooting with infared film. Well, using an 11x14 camera...how do I know how far to shift the focus?
Finally, I'm using Pyrocat-HD as my standard film developer, will that be okay with this film?
Loading/unloading, carrying and storing the film...any difference front normal film?
Any other suggestions for using infared film in LF and ULF sizes would be helpful.
Thanks so much!
Speed: Very low. Try ISO 6 equivalent with a IR filter (can't remember what mine is - except that it's Lee).
Focus shift depends on your lens, not your camera. Since the MACO film is only sensitive to the very shortest part of the IR spectrum (i.e. closest to visible light), with all reasonably well-corrected lenses the shift is zero. If you're using a meniscus lens you'll have to experiment, I'm afraid.
Loading/unloading - I've had no problems. Again, the IR sensitivity of this film is so "short" (compared to HIE) that anything which is visible-light-proof should be good enough.
It has a nice dip in the green sensitivity that makes it an easy film to develop by inspection, too!
Pyrocat-HD is a wonderful developer with this film. See http://www.bruraholo.no/bilder/skog-norm.jpg for an example (4x5" Maco IR 820c, 135mm/3.5 CZ Planar).
-- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
Well geez...I guess not many people shoot infared film! haha.
More people used to shoot LF IR when Kodak still made their HIE in sheet film formats. The stuff was bloody awful expensive, which is one reason they didn't sell enough to keep it going. It, at least, had a pre-filter ISO of around 400, so with an 87 Red filter, you still got about ISO 50.
For the MACO, I'd try it at ISO 6 and ISO 3. It is slower than Molasses on Pluto in January.
4x5 is bad enough. I would never guess with larger sized film.
Meter through the filter with a Luna Pro F and get perfect exposures every time with no guiesswork. Set it at the recommended ASA 100 and away you go. I meter through the Lee 87 gel. Actually, since I had to cut the filter to fit the frame, the leftover became a custom filter insert for the LunaPro F.
I also never worried about compensating with len movement. I just stopped it down a bit and didn't worry about it. Most were at infinity where it just didn't make any difference.
Can't help with your developer...
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Originally Posted by Ryan McIntosh
Sorry, I just got back from the conference a little while ago.
Pyrocat-HD is fine with this film. I have been developing my 8x10 in it for a while at 3:2:100 for about 15 minutes. The Lee filter is an 87. You might want to try ISO 6 or 3. I use a Harrison 88A filter and rate it at ISO 6. I would recommend at least an 88A to get the IR effect with this film.
On a sunny day with an 87 filter, I would shoot for 1 sec @f/22. Generally, I use an 88A, so I shoot at f/16 for 1/2 s. I don't worry about shifting my focus either.
There should be no difference in how you treat the film in comparison from other films.
Where did you get 11x14 Maco IR??
WOW - this is great information. I have been wanting to try this combination. Now we have some solid experience from which to start.
Originally Posted by colrehogan
I am printing in pt/pd, so you may need to experiment a little.
Thanks Diane. I'll be contact printing on Azo and the new paper from Michael Smith when it comes out. POP and Kallitype are on the horizon too.
Originally Posted by colrehogan
Thanks for all of the info.
Thanks for the info Diane.
I found a fellow who has a stack of the film (11x14 Maco IR) in his freezer, and sold it for very cheep. The date is for late next year, so its all still good.
I just realized that all I have is a red 25 filter, and I dont think that will give very strong IF effects, right? Even though the film was a good deal, it was still expensive...so I better wait to get the correct filter before shooting it.