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  1. #1
    jimgalli's Avatar
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    Some Recent (Last Weekend) 8X10's on Freestyle APHS developed in Rodinal+

    I just whipped up a page at my website with 4 new images done on Freestyles APHS ortho film. They can be viewed here:

    http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com/Fr...PHS072206.html

    The 4 scans are far from perfect but still I think you can get an idea of the continuous tone possibilities with Freestyles great APHS ortho film.

    The pics are hot linked to BIGGER sizes if you want to get a better feel for tonality and detail. If your browser re-sizes, try holding the cursor in the bottom right hand corner and when the 4 out arrows show up, click for a full size view.

    As always, let me know what you think!
    He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep..to gain that which he cannot lose. Jim Elliot, 1949

    http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com

  2. #2

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    Nice photos! Just might have to give your formula a shot.
    BTW what ever happened to your lens with the a/c condensate on it?
    bart

  3. #3

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    Awesome as usual Jim.
    I like the 2nd insulator shot the best; I think they have lots of potential for other shots.
    What are your initial thoughts on the film after working with it ?

  4. #4
    Jerevan's Avatar
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    I like them all, but if I had to choose, it'd be number 2 and number 4. The last one is so sharp you could cut yourself! I am impressed by the tonal range in the ortho film. I understand that you need to restrain the high contrast, but is it necessary when you use the diluted Rodinal? What if you did some kind of stand development - would the contrast still skyrocket? Just gotta love that old truck.

    Keep'em coming.
    “Do your work, then step back. The only path to serenity.” - Lao Tzu

  5. #5
    jimgalli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerevan
    I like them all, but if I had to choose, it'd be number 2 and number 4. The last one is so sharp you could cut yourself! I am impressed by the tonal range in the ortho film. I understand that you need to restrain the high contrast, but is it necessary when you use the diluted Rodinal? What if you did some kind of stand development - would the contrast still skyrocket? Just gotta love that old truck.

    Keep'em coming.
    The Benzotriazole and Potassium Iodide act as restrainers in the formula. The insulator pics were done in full sunlight so have lots of contrast possible but the formula tames it.

    Quote Originally Posted by bart Nadeau
    BTW what ever happened to your lens with the a/c condensate on it?
    bart
    I never did get the lens cleaned up.

    Quote Originally Posted by SteveH
    What are your initial thoughts on the film after working with it?
    Steve, I've played with this stuff for a long time and the stuff done with the Rodinal based formula is by far the best. I rate it at asa 3. I've yet to try it with a portrait to see if it would have an effect similar to some of the alternative processes that also only see blue. It's on my list of things to do. Need more time and more victims. The negs actually look a bit flat and indeed with an ordinary MG paper you use a #3 filter to build some contrast back in.
    He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep..to gain that which he cannot lose. Jim Elliot, 1949

    http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com

  6. #6
    Eric Rose's Avatar
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    what advantages does the ortho stuff have over panchromatic films in your opinion?
    www.ericrose.com
    yourbaddog.com

    "civility is not a sign of weakness" JFK

    "The Dude abides" - the Dude

  7. #7
    jimgalli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Rose
    what advantages does the ortho stuff have over panchromatic films in your opinion?

    <CHEAP>
    He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep..to gain that which he cannot lose. Jim Elliot, 1949

    http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com

  8. #8
    Eric Rose's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimgalli
    <CHEAP>
    Ok, let me come at this another way. Besides the very slow asa what disadvantages does ortho have over pan films? I've always been interested in trying the stuff but have seen little modern work done with it. Can you do the usual zone stuff with it? I understand the clouds and sky usually turn out white. Is there anyway around this?

    thx
    www.ericrose.com
    yourbaddog.com

    "civility is not a sign of weakness" JFK

    "The Dude abides" - the Dude

  9. #9
    jimgalli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Rose
    Ok, let me come at this another way. Besides the very slow asa what disadvantages does ortho have over pan films? I've always been interested in trying the stuff but have seen little modern work done with it. Can you do the usual zone stuff with it? I understand the clouds and sky usually turn out white. Is there anyway around this?

    thx
    Hi Eric. The initial attraction was to try to get some cheap (relatively) film to play with in the 11X14. It is a very special animal though as it only sees blue of course. You need to play with it a bit in order to chose your subjects wisely. When I photographed the pickup it was a rather dark overcast day and contrast was low. The old truck is John Deere Green which has a lot of blue so the film "see's" it pretty well. Overcast light is very blue and the subject is completely static so overall it was a good fit for the film. Barrel lenses also work hand in hand with the stuff because a normal exposure with ASA in normal light is multi-seconds.

    No it doesn't work well with zone sys type shooting. But that isn't my strongest suit either and someone else might get pretty handy with expanding and contracting it. You develop it visually with a 25W red lamp on about 3 feet away so you can watch where you're at and let the contrast build or not. My rule is to set a timer for 10 minutes and then when the image comes up in the developer, I look at how much time I've used and multiply by 4. So if my image emerges at 1.5 min. I'd give 6 minutes total. Longer would add some contrast but the stuff tends to block up some in the high values so I usually leave it a little flat and expand it when I print.

    If you're lucky enough to have puffy white clouds and your subject is Very Northish, surprisingly a polarizer will give you black skies and white clouds. But it's very unforgiving to the directional effect of a polarizer. ie if you were looking a bit off of polar N you would see your sky in different tones, dark on one side, light on the other.

    Something I've yet to try is portraiture in full shade. With ASA 3 and an f4 portrait lens like a Petzval wide open, it should be very useable with a Packard shutter at about 1/8 to 1/15th sec. And it should see the subject similarly to collodion and other early things that only see blue.
    He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep..to gain that which he cannot lose. Jim Elliot, 1949

    http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com

  10. #10
    Eric Rose's Avatar
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    Thanks Jim, just what I was looking for. Darinwc, I'm sorry I don't understand your comment.
    www.ericrose.com
    yourbaddog.com

    "civility is not a sign of weakness" JFK

    "The Dude abides" - the Dude

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