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  1. #1

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    redeving polaroid in pyro

    Hi all. Not sure where to put this one, but here's as good as any, I guess.

    I want to over-egg a couple of polaroid 55 negs I have for alt process. I am just about to nuke them in farmer's and redev in pyro, but have a couple of questions I hope someone can help me with. My plan:
    1: Soak negs for 5 mins in water in normal light conditions.
    2: Nuke said negs back to the stone age.
    3: Rinse.
    4: Redev in Pyro for normal dev time.
    5: Rinse in water, and dry.

    Questions:

    1: Has anyone tried this and have had, a) unmitigated success, b) humiliating disaster?
    2: How much increase in contrast/density will normal dev time give me?
    3. What is normal dev time for p55 in Pyro?
    4. Is there anything else I should be doing?

    All comments, suggestions welcome.

    Many thanks.

    Geoff

  2. #2

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    hi geoff

    never done it before, but insteat of developing then twice and using farmers reducer, why don't you just expose them and dn't process them - remove the film in the dark and process them the first time in pyro?
    (the folks at polaroid sort of suggest that the film is panatomic x )

    have fun

    john

  3. #3
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    Hi Geoff. gainer is who you want to ask even if you have to hunt him down. I've not done it either..but..you do know that the farmers removes every bit of silver right. So re-dev in Pyro (I'm assuming pmk) will only give you the density of the stain. I think that's right. Whatever you do, don't start with the important neg. Make some facsimile's. I'm curious now so I'll stay tuned and hope Gadget Gainer will help you out.
    He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep..to gain that which he cannot lose. Jim Elliot, 1949

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  4. #4

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    I believe Sandy King has a fair amount of experience with bleaching and then redeveloping with pyro. Try him for advice. Though his experience may not be with with Type 55.

    Recent discussions with Polaroid suggest it is no longer Panatomic-X in Type 55, but a Fuji substitute.
    Kirk Gittings
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  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirk Gittings View Post

    Recent discussions with Polaroid suggest it is no longer Panatomic-X in Type 55, but a Fuji substitute.
    hi kirk

    good to know ..
    i spoke with someone at polaroid a few (maybe 8?) months ago and she said pan-x, but maybe she was working on olde information ..

    john

  6. #6
    Ole
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    It should work. I've done it before - but don't use Farmer's!

    Use a rehalogenising bleach, like pot ferri with potassium bromide. Wash well, and redevelop in Pyro/soda. That's a "short use developer" - mix a teaspoon of pyro in 250ml water, a teaspoon of soda in another 250ml water, and mix immediately before use. It goes murky brown and dies within five minutes, but that is more than sufficient for full development with lots and lots of stain.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
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  7. #7

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    Many thanks guys. Great replies. I'll do a bit more digging and update the thread.

    Thanks again.

    Geoff

  8. #8

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    OK. I've done a bit of digging and, based on that and what you guys have told me, this is my revised game plan:

    1: Soak negs in water for 5 mins.
    2: Bleach neg back to base in pot ferri/pot bromide/water (2:1:some). NOT farmer's (thanks chaps)
    3: Expose to strong light source (not quite sure what this achieves, but have seen it referenced in a couple of sources, and can't see the harm. Anyone any ideas?)
    4: Wash.
    5: Redev in PMK (Ole: I'm not ignoring the pyro/soda solution - can't get pyro before weekend. Will try as soon as I can. Sounds like an interesting mix.)

    I found a thread by Gainer on the AZO forum. "...There's no need to worry about development times or agitation, as it should go to completion. There is, of course, only enough silver bromide left to restore the original silver image, and once that is done the staining stops because the developer needs the local products of reduction to form the mordant to fix the stain. Consequently, there is no danger of overdeveloping, and streaking or bromide drag can only occur if development is too short."

    So, does this sound reasonable? Please let me know if you see any errors, and I'll let you know the outcome.

    Many thanks

    Geoff

  9. #9
    Ole
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    That sounds very reasonable.
    The reason for exposing the film to strong light is to make sure that you have exposed the new silver halide that's been formed in the bleaching. Whether you wash before, after or during reexposure doesn't matter at all. You can even do the reexposure during developing, but at the risk of streaking/mottled exposure.

    Wash well after developing. Theoretically there should be no need for fixing after redeveloping, but most people feel more comfortable with a fix...
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
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  10. #10
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    Heat the redev pmk to at least 80F, it will help with the density.
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    Technology is not a panacea. It alone will not move your art forward. Only through developing your own aesthetic - free from the tools that create it - can you find new dimension to your work.

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