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  1. #21
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    The Fotoman lens cones have helical focusing mounts, so you tell them which lens you have when you order the camera, and they send you an appropriate cone with the proper distance scale on the helical focus mount, and you put the lens on.

    If you're at all handy with DIY type projects, you can make a Littmann type camera for very little money - get yourself one of a number of Polaroid cameras, remove the Polaroid back, and graft on a 4x5 back. There's tons of documentation out there on the web on how to do it.

  2. #22
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    I agree with the Fotoman, especially if you are going to have one lens. You don't sound like you will do much architectural photography so rise and fall aren't critical. The Nikon 135 is a nice lens and you may find you need a little wide once in a while. I went into Yoho last year and left my 135 home in favor of my 150..I regretted it every day..EC

  3. #23
    athanasius80's Avatar
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    Sample:
    Handheld with available light January 2007. 4x5 B&J press with a 127mm Kodak Ektar. Bad contact print and scandalously dusty scanner. Enjoy!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Belfast.jpg  

  4. #24
    DBP
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    If you are really worried about your safety and the need to carry something cheap, add a nice old bulb flash to a Speed/Crown Graphic and carry a few old press bulbs. BTW, the listed Speed Graphic above is way overpriced.

    And of course, folded, a press camera just looks like a little leather box to most people.
    Last edited by DBP; 05-19-2007 at 11:25 PM. Reason: another thought

  5. #25

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    An older Linhof Technika, such as model III might not be a bad idea. They're small, have triple extension bellows, all metal (a bit on the heavy side) and very sturdy. The only major drawback being the lack of lensboards on the market, these are not compatible with the later models (IV and V). They sell for cheaper than the IV and V models.

  6. #26
    Eyepix's Avatar
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    Another source for a Handheld 4x5


  7. #27
    Les Newcomer's Avatar
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    LIke David said, you need rise for movements, and probably a decent amount of your work will be vertical....that leads me to suggest a Super Graphic with a rotating back. The only drawback is that it doesn't handle lenses below 100mm well as it doesn't have focusable rails inside the bed. I have used a 65mm in a helical mount with a Super with good results.

  8. #28
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    In the city, even if you don't think of your project as "doing architecturals," the architecture is part of the environment and often forms part of the composition, so if you have rise and shift, you'll probably use it.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  9. #29

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    i probably would do some architecture stuff, but for the most part i would need close focusing, not rangefinder infinity focusing with a high f-stop. i usually try to shoot 1/60 (or faster) and my fstop range is usually between 2.8-11

  10. #30

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    For your needs I recommend a baby speed or crown with a roll film back, 6X9 back which shoot 8 frames to start. Lighter and easier to handhold or use with a monopod, less expensive in case you do get jacked. If the bady speed works out then consider a 4X5 press camera.

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