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  1. #11

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    </span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (George @ Dec 6 2002, 03:15 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>Bob, didn&#39;t you get tired of the different readings between the incident and the spot readings of your Sekonic 508? Also, I hated the constant underexposure the spot readings were giving. </td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

    No, but I had adjusted personal technique before I became aware of the problem and it works ok for me. I am not real scientific about exposure and developing and have developed a "system" with this meter that would all have to be changed if I got a different meter. Keep in mind that I shoot mostly B&W with very occasional Quickload Provia.

  2. #12

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    I dont know what is it about the L508, I have heard this underexposre complaint but mine does great. I think they had QC problems with this meter, as the work/does not work ratio seems to be 50/50......
    I am surprised at Sekonic, I always thouhgt they were good meters. I guess I got lucky. If anything I get constant overexposure when I use filters, I had to actually take a pic of a gray card and see which one was the correct factor. Inavariably I get lower factors than the recommended ones, but with my gossen ultra spot I did not have this problem...go figure....




  3. #13

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    It&#39;s not that hard to convert digital readouts to Zones at all. Just get a fine point pen, a strip of paper and some Scotch tape. Then, make a little Zone scale (cheat sheet) with numbers 3, 5, and 7 appropriately spaced, and stick it up against the little ring these spotmeters have. I had to do it because of a tendency to forget which "direction" to go. Now if I take a highlight reading (for slides), I just put that reading on the little number 7. If I take a shadow reading for print film, I put that reading across from the little number 3. If I was reading from a graycard or a somewhat middle tone, I just stick it in the middle on the number 5.

  4. #14

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    </span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Jorge @ Dec 6 2002, 08:45 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>I dont know what is it about the L508, I have heard this underexposre complaint but mine does great. I think they had QC problems with this meter, as the work/does not work ratio seems to be 50/50......
    </td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
    That&#39;s good to hear Jorge and may be why it has not bothered me. I had just assumed mine had the same problems so often talked about and I had personally compensated somehow. Now I am intriqued enough to test it to find out. Suggestions on a good home testing procedure would be welcomed. Something that will eliminate the variables such as meters beings set to 12% at factory instead of the 18% cards I have, and the angle of the card to the light source etc.

    Meters to me have always been a bit of a mystery as the Sekonics/Gossen/Minoltas I have owned have all reacted differently in different light. Shade-direct sun-indoor and like you said with filters. Sometimes a half stop difference from meter to meter. I have just assumed it was differences in cells and angle of view or flare and of course my technique. Maybe I should get more scientific about this so I won&#39;t be such a loose Zoner. Then I can get a densitometer and really get scientific.........not.

    SteveGangi, no it&#39;s not that hard but if you are an "old guy" like me you fondly yearn for the old days of analog meters that were so natural or intuitive to use. Another 20yrs of digital readings and I&#39;ll get it down.

    Bob

  5. #15

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    Well. I am pushing 50 so I suppose some people would group me with the "old guys" too. So far, I still feel young except on Monday mornings (maybe I am allergic to work).

  6. #16

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    Looking for a good meter for us to carry was a nightmare - couldn&#39;t find anything I liked. And I asked someone who owned a light measurement company to advise me, what I found out about the quality of most available meters was horrifying.

    If you buy the Pentax meter, it won&#39;t be any good for color work, or Polaroid Black and White. Polaroid is wildly sensitive to ultraviolet and the Zone VI Pentax won&#39;t read that. I spoke to a Pentax tech guy about the modification too...

    If you want to e-mail me directly I&#39;ll give you specifics. I don&#39;t like to mention other manufacturers on this forum.

    There is a lot of discussion about spectral response and meters in our E-Newsletters and I&#39;d be glad to send them to you if you like -------------- or anyone on this forum.

    Anthony Guidice, Fine Art Photo Supply

  7. #17

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    Looking for a good meter for us to carry was a nightmare - couldn&#39;t find anything I liked. And I asked someone who owned a light measurement company to advise me, what I found out about the quality of most available meters was horrifying.

    If you buy the Pentax meter, it won&#39;t be any good for color work, or Polaroid Black and White. Polaroid is wildly sensitive to ultraviolet and the Zone VI Pentax won&#39;t read that. I spoke to a Pentax tech guy about the modification too...

    If you want to e-mail me directly I&#39;ll give you specifics. I don&#39;t like to mention other manufacturers on this forum.

    There is a lot of discussion about spectral response and meters in our E-Newsletters and I&#39;d be glad to send them to you if you like -------------- or anyone on this forum.

    Anthony Guidice, Fine Art Photo Supply

  8. #18

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    </span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Jorge @ Dec 6 2002, 06:45 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>I dont know what is it about the L508, I have heard this underexposre complaint but mine does great. I think they had QC problems with this meter, as the work/does not work ratio seems to be 50/50......
    .</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
    Jorge, there was more into it than just a QC problem. My L508 went into repair for the constant underexposure (2/3 of a stop), came back with no change (all normal&#33. I asked Sekonic about it and was told that 2/3 is in the manufacturing tolerances - as if that were any consolation&#33; Of course I used the second button to change the film sensitivity and get the right values but then I couldn&#39;t use it for filter corrections or another ASA film. The L508 had simply a construction defect which Sekonic tried to hide behind various answers until they came out with the 608. At least you can now calibrate it yourself&#33;
    Another wrong construction was the Luna Pro F (Gossen) which is leaking slight current even when switched off... After a month of no use the battery is flat - but there they acknowledged it instead of hiding it.

  9. #19

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    </span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (George @ Dec 8 2002, 04:37 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Jorge @ Dec 6 2002, 06:45 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>I dont know what is it about the L508, I have heard this underexposre complaint but mine does great. I think they had QC problems with this meter, as the work/does not work ratio seems to be 50/50......
    .</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
    Jorge, there was more into it than just a QC problem. My L508 went into repair for the constant underexposure (2/3 of a stop), came back with no change (all normal&#33. I asked Sekonic about it and was told that 2/3 is in the manufacturing tolerances - as if that were any consolation&#33; Of course I used the second button to change the film sensitivity and get the right values but then I couldn&#39;t use it for filter corrections or another ASA film. The L508 had simply a construction defect which Sekonic tried to hide behind various answers until they came out with the 608. At least you can now calibrate it yourself&#33;
    Another wrong construction was the Luna Pro F (Gossen) which is leaking slight current even when switched off... After a month of no use the battery is flat - but there they acknowledged it instead of hiding it.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
    George you are not alone, it is this exact complaint I heard many times. I kind of think it is half assed manufacturing when you put out meters that sometimes measure ok, and sometimes measure 2/3 under. As I said I got lucky and my meter is dead on with my gossen ultra spot, but I would not buy it again, or the 608....maybe they are following the lead of the sofware manufacturers, if it does not work the first time, just make a new version that does and charge more&#33;
    As to the buttons I am not sure what you mean, you mean the iso1 and iso2? you know that if you press both at the same time you can put a "factor" so that the meter under or over exposes always, right?


    But we have gotten off topic, Brian, most meters will have some "quirck" and you will have to test them for your particular situation, I beleive the Zone VI is "corrected" for tri-x, but I suppose this is better than nothing. I would worry more about flare than "consistency" as you can always adjust the EI rating for your particular method. The Zone VI appears to be well protected against flare and not as expensive as the Sekonic or Gossen spot meters.




  10. #20

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    As to the buttons I am not sure what you mean, you mean the iso1 and iso2? you know that if you press both at the same time you can put a "factor" so that the meter under or over exposes always, right?

    Yes, I meant that. But if I remember well the correction with 2 buttons pressed at the same time was then valid for both the spot and the incident measuring? (I sold it some year ago.) My 508 had correct incident measuring, incorrect was just the spot .

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