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  1. #11

    Join Date
    Nov 2002
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    My solution is to bring a changing bag along with an empty film box. A notebook records the holder and development info. Similar to what people have mentioned already. I like the fingernail clipper idea, tho.
    Nobody ever went broke underestimating the intelligence of the American public.

  2. #12
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Sep 2002
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    Of course, those who develop by inspection would say you don't have to separate sheets--just develop until they're right.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    South Pasadena, CA USA
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    470
    David,

    Good point. Although even Michael Smith sparates them generally, just so he has an idea of how long any one batch is going to be in the developer since you can only turn the green light on toward the end of the development.

    And back to the dust, the friend who introduced me to LF Way Back When carried a very small can of air and would blow the holders before inserting them. For whatever reason I have never felt the need to do that, but it served him well...I don't remember seeing him spend a lot of time spotting prints.

    dgh

    David G Hall

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    1,030
    FWIW, I just returned from a trip with a 4x5 and all of three holders. I took two boxes-one for exposed film, and changed the holders in a dark bag, and a hurricane brush/blower to clean the holders with between loads. Not too bad a system. I've never tried grafmatics and don't know how to load/unload them in the dark but that would seem like a very viable alternative. Good Luck!

  5. #15
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Instructions for loading and using Grafmatics can be found at www.graflex.org.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    10
    If you are not using readyloaders--if you do not think Tmax 100 is the holy grail!-- then you might try this method. It works well for me. Think of of exposed 4x5 as a horizontal rectangle., with the notch code at the bottom right. That equals N development. If you cut a small triangle from the film at the corner above the notch code, that is N+ 1. A corner cut one the diagonal from the notch cose is N-1. A corner cut one the same hoizontal as the notch code ios N-2. Any two corners cut means N- ?, depending upon the development you use for those types of situations. I use the Sexton Tmax RS 1-15 dilutions.

    What about N+2/ For me that is N+1 plus selenium toner and an aletration of paper grade.

    Worked this way you can unload and reload holders rather efficiently. I know when I return home I musy sort all those sheets of film, but I least then I have my darkroom and no external problems to worry me.

    And if my wife and i are ready to end the photographic day and enjoy ourselves in some way that does not involve a 30 pound backpack and a Gitzo tripod, this certainly speeds up that.

    Bob

  7. #17

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    10
    If you are not using readyloaders--if you do not think Tmax 100 is the holy grail!-- then you might try this method. It works well for me. Think of of exposed 4x5 as a horizontal rectangle., with the notch code at the bottom right. That equals N development. If you cut a small triangle from the film at the corner above the notch code, that is N+ 1. A corner cut one the diagonal from the notch cose is N-1. A corner cut one the same hoizontal as the notch code ios N-2. Any two corners cut means N- ?, depending upon the development you use for those types of situations. I use the Sexton Tmax RS 1-15 dilutions.
    What about N+2/ For me that is N+1 plus selenium toner and an aletration of paper grade.

    After 10 years I have never sliced into an image. I did practice of some less than exhibition quality negatives before I began this approach.

    Worked this way you can unload and reload holders rather efficiently. I know when I return home I must sort all those sheets of film, but I least then I have my darkroom and no external problems to worry me.

    And if my wife and i are ready to end the photographic day and enjoy ourselves in some way that does not involve a 30 pound backpack and a Gitzo tripod, this certainly speeds up that.

    Bob

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