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  1. #11
    Jeremy's Avatar
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    a further question for those advocating a pre-soak... is this necessary? I ask as I use diafine for my developer and it states not to use a pre-soak... but as this is a 2-part develper I may just extend the first part by a minute or 2 to allow it to fully soak in... looks like I have some testing to do!
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

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  2. #12
    bmac's Avatar
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    I have never used Diafine, but I always presoak film. Testing is the best way to determine if it makes a difference for you with your setup. Whatever you do, make sure you stay consistent with your process.
    hi!

  3. #13

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    The unicolor motor though switches directiions, whereas the besseler doesn't. It'll work, but I'd rotate the tube if using the uni-directional motor base.

  4. #14

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    Doesn't the later beseler rotate?

  5. #15
    Ed Sukach's Avatar
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    </span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Jeremy Moore @ May 9 2003, 07:36 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>a further question for those advocating a pre-soak... is this necessary? I ask as I use diafine for my developer and it states not to use a pre-soak... but as this is a 2-part develper I may just extend the first part by a minute or 2 to allow it to fully soak in... looks like I have some testing to do&#33;</td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
    I fully expect there will be more opinons pro and con than there are opinions of the "proper" way to agitate.

    I don&#39;t advocate pre-soak, so this question my not be for me, but ... as a rule, I NEVER pre-soak.
    This is a result of many visits to the AGFA and Ilford web sites, the instructions with color developing kits, and a few others. The common rationale was that pre-soaking has an undesirable "swelling" effect on the emulsion, causing non-uniform developer penetration and a resulting degredation of edge boundaries - and therefore defintition. AGFA was especially specific in advising *against* pre-soaking in the processing of color film.

    The one exception I know of (note that I do not mean to imply "universal truth") is MACO 820 IR. MACO strongly recommends a one minute water pre-soak to remove the anti-halation layer - and, having done that and observing the shocking blue water draining from the JOBO, I think I understand why.

    But - hey ... whatever crumles your cookie....
    Carpe erratum!!

    Ed Sukach, FFP.

  6. #16
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    </span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (chrisl @ May 9 2003, 10:30 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> The unicolor motor though switches directiions, whereas the besseler doesn&#39;t. It&#39;ll work, but I&#39;d rotate the tube if using the uni-directional motor base. </td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
    Mine has a reversing function.
    hi!

  7. #17

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    Oh, I mistakingly thought all the motors were the same. Def. get a motor that reverses directions.

    I have always presoaked myself for b&w. Never seen any ill effects, maybe it&#39;s an issue Ed only with color films.


  8. #18
    Ole
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    </span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (chrisl @ May 10 2003, 06:47 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> I have always presoaked myself for b&w. </td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
    I have always presoaked the flims - are you suggesting I should take a bath?



    (Edited - I wrote this first under the influence of German. Couldn&#39;t understand it myself)
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  9. #19
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    I use a Jobo Expert 3006 drum with PMK and have had every problem there is with presoaking. I think PMK is sensitive to this. Now I have a method that works well. I insert the film into the drum that is flooded with water. Lid on and top of drum with water and then displace the water with dry nitrogen gas and put in a cork. Onto the base and add the B part with half the total volume of water, i.e. I use 1000cc of water, so I add the B part to 500cc of water. This runs on the base for 2 minutes and then I add the A part with its 500cc of water and start the clock. The nitrogen is just to reduce oxidation that affects staining with PMK.

    With another technique, I don&#39;t presoak. For scenes that need extreme compensation with good low end development, I put the film into the drum dry. On the base, I add about 500cc of PURE A STOCK for a few minutes. The film soaks up the A stock, but no development takes place without the B stock. I then remove the A stock (save this back into the bottle, it is fine), and put in the B stock diluted, i.e 20cc B to 980cc water, and start the clock. Works great. No nitrogen gas needed for this type of development.
    Watch for Loose Gravel

  10. #20
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