The last time I tried it, it didn't help. So I took the whole camera and put it on the tripod upside down - it works like charm!
Originally Posted by Mark Sawyer
[QUOTE=infest;631466]The last time I tried it, it didn't help. So I took the whole camera and put it on the tripod upside down - it works like charm![
oh thas jus silly
it's obvious the lens is wrong way up
Been there, done that. For some reason it didn't work. That's how I found out the new method...
Originally Posted by infest
Thanks all for your instructive, interesting and funny comments! I have ended up doing exactly what Steve suggests, and found that, somewhat ironically, when the GG is placed the correct way round, there is a mismatch of 3mm, yes, 3mm, between the GG surface and the actual film plane in a standard Fidelity holder.
Its off to the hobby shop for me now, to find some brass or hardwood panel in exactly 3mm thickness... wish me luck!
Thanks again and keep up the good work... this is a great website.
Please post a picture of your camera
An early Century might be made for different film holder specs than we use today.
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Yes but it's just a difference (or actually, no difference) you are looking for. The tape must be present for both measurements.
Originally Posted by Ray Heath
This would work for checking depth if you can get the measuring stick perpendicular to the ground glass and you can measure all 4 corners as well as the centre with measuring stick perpendicular and you don't push the film back against the holder when you measure, because it will move and is unlikely to be touching film holder all over its area when its in the taking position and you don't apply any pressure because the inside of the film holder flexes really easily as does the film.
Originally Posted by Steve Smith
Or to put it mildly, its a ballpark measurement which may be ok for showing 3mm errors, but not very good for getting maximum accuracy over the whole film holder depth which is what you want. Your GG may be on a slope end to end or top to bottom. Especially if someone has been messing with it and is using a stick to set its depth...
Originally Posted by Adrian D
be carefull not to scratch the groundglass when measuring the depth (or T-distance), it is easily scratched.
A few 100 of a millimeter won't make any difference on the depth of focus. The smaller the format you shoot, the more important it is.
There is hearsay that on some ULF cameras and filmholders the differences of the T-distance are up to (or over) 1 millimeter!
The main reason for this is that 4x5" negatives are mostly enlarged and ULF get contact printed (and there is no enlargement of errors...).
Well that depends on your viewpoint. The point of using a larger format is to get better resolution and smoother tones in the print through reduced enalrgement. Or for bigger enlargements. If you don't get film plane accuracy as close to small format precision as possible, then you are throwing away some of the benefit. And if you want to enlarge BIG, then you are wasting your time with a larger format if you don't get smaller format precision.
Originally Posted by argus
People seem to think that a big negative will solve everything. Well no it won't. Not if you let sloppy technique and equipment setup ruin it.
And if its not sharp in the negative, it will never be as sharp in the print as it could be, even with contact prints.
duh, of course, my dumb
Originally Posted by Steve Smith