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The blue tint is normal, that is the anti-halation stuff in the film base.
It's not always as noticeable depending on what film you're souping.
Tri X 400 has it strong and T Max is kinda magenta-ish. I prewet as well and with 4x5 even use a touch of Sodium Meta Borate and have found from experience it helps with more even development of sheets since I use trays.
The pre wet helps get out the tint to the film which keeps you from over fixing trying to get the film base clear.
Keep shooting and that first perfect neg makes you forget all the flubs.
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As you said you new in large formate, didn't you load your film back side out in the film holder?
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I've made every mistake imaginable and I'm sure I'll continue to do so. The only thing that has changed is that i'm much more cautious and deliberate. You'll get there. As far as developing goes.. whatever works and whatever you like. I screw up my Uniroller Unidrum atleast once a month and many people find that to be foolproof.
The best advice i've found is that nothing is perfect and neither are you but each time you make a mistake you can learn from it.. and keep rolling with it. I went from 35mm to 4x5 to MF. I only play with 35mm toy cameras and small rangefinders when i'm bored. Everything else is with the hassy or pentax if it moves quick, or the 4x5 if it moves slow.
I'll bet you that the next time you try, you won't make the same mistake. That's progress!
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Like Phillip, I went from 35mm to 4x5, and then on to MF. Once you've experienced the image that a larger negative can deliver, there is very little use for the 35mm format.
Making mistakes is part of the learning process, and in retrospect, part of the fun. The biggest mistake you can make would be to give up, or not shoot enough to really learn the format and develop good habits.
One habit I have is, like others here, is to trip the shutter a few times before pulling the dark slide. I usually look into the lens at the same time, which allows me to double check the aperture and listen to the shutter for any anomalies. It also gives me a few extra seconds to mentally run through the set up and double check if I've missed anything. I still make many mistakes, some embarrassingly stupid, but the more I do it, the better it gets.
I use the unicolor drum for processing, and it works fine for me. I start the timer after I've poured in the chemicals, and I stop it before I pour them out. The important thing is to be consistent, and the most important thing is to have a good time.
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 Originally Posted by bobwysiwyg
I did go back to straight D76 on this one since it worked fine the first time, but shouldn't D76 1:1, with appropriately adjusted dev. time work also. I noticed in the Kodak tech sheet info. for TMAX 100, it gave some suggested times/temps for 1:1 in small tanks. It seems the Combi fits somewhere between small and large? Anyway, should 1:1 work? It could save some chems while I'm learning.
Yes of course it should work. 1+1 is the standard dilution for one-shot processing with D76/ID11 etc. As the Combi-tank takes approx 1 litre of dev I'd put it nearer the small tank than the large...
Notice the band along the left. I'm guessing this was from not loading the holder correctly. I took an old sheet just now and I guess I should have ensured the sheet was slid all the way in before closing the hinge.:rolleyes:
Without seeing the rebates all round I can't be sure, but I'd guess the problem is as you surmise.
Perhaps you should add a spirit level to your LF kit 
Richard
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When Kodak talks about "large tank" development, they're talking about a vessel that holds about 3 1/2 gallons or 14 litres. The CombiPlan tank is definitely considered a small tank.
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