Round Two..what a disaster.

[bobwysiwyg]

Relatively new to 4x5, but took a couple of shots several weeks ago. Turned out OK, nothing esthetically great, but technically good.. if you overlooked the dust. That's when I understood what folks were saying about cleanliness while loading, etc. Anyway, developed them (TMAX 100) in D76 straight in a Combi tank and all was well.

Took the camera up on vacation with us and took some holders loaded with TMAX 100 and some with 400. Going to sleep the night after taking the first two shots it suddenly dawned on me, I forgot to close the preview before pulling the dark slide. Duh! Oh, well...

Took a number of shots using up both the remaining 100's and then the 400's. I started developing them today and started with the 400's. As careful as I was, I still managed to load two sheets into the same slot in the Combi... kiss those two sheets goodbye. I used D76 1:1, 12 min. Boy, talk about terrible. Not sure what's wrong. Muddy and lack contrast. Back to school I guess.

Thankfully I took some 35mm cameras with me. At least those shots are OK.

I know some folks have had good success with the Combi, but I do see how some dislike the time it takes to fill/empty. Seems like they could have designed larger light trapped openings.

[Alex Hawley]

Welcome to Large Format. Even the best and most experience make those same flubs. Don't worry, with practice, the flub frequency goes down.

[John Kasaian]

I like the Unicolor processor with a print drum for souping film, Dirt cheap on eba-ba-ba- that auction site. There is a good article on using one to soup film on the Large Format Home Page.

[Alex Hawley]

I also use the Unicolor processor and have had very good luck with it so far. In addition to rotary processing, the unicolor drums can be used for semi-stand or extreme minimal agitation developing techniques.

[David William White]

One tip I got on my first lesson in LF (from Rob Skeoch) is to test fire the shutter at your chosen speed before pulling the darkslide. The shutter won't trip unless the lens is closed. Also tests your cable release. So test fire, then pull the darkslide, then re-cock and fire for real. Introducing that extra step has saved me some film, I'm sure.

[papagene]

I have been using the Combi tank for about 17 years with hardly a problem. Developing LF film is akin to exposing LF film... you need to take your time, and be careful, no need to rush things.
Here is what I do:
After a water bath, I shut off the lights, take the top off and pour the developer into the tank in total darkness (it is a lot easier than you might think, but does take a little practice), put the top back on and agitate. Repeat the same process for stop and fix. This process has worked successfully for me for many years.
As far as other LF goof-ups... I still make plenty of them!

gene

[fschifano]

The CombiPlan tank isn't so bad despite the naysayers' complaints. Yes, it takes a bit of practice to load the sheets properly and to secure them in place. That's what all those wasted sheets of film are good for - practice. They do take a while to fill, but even that's not too bad. The vent needs to be open for reasonably fast filling and draining. Slow working developers are your friends with this tank. You want the fill and drain times to be an insignificant portion of the total development time. As for your low contrast results, that smacks of insufficient development. Not having been there, I can't tell if the developer was too cold, your agitation insufficient, or timing too short. Chances are good though that at least one of those variables is the cause.

[Craig Roberts]

I have tray processed all of my sheet film for the last 39 years – no tanks or drums or any such nonsense, lots of practice. Mistakes and a vertical learning curve were the norm. Craig

[Bruce Osgood]

With my JOBO CPE 2+ I'm developing Tmax 100 in D-76 1+1 for 9:00 minutes. A lot depends on the speed of rotation and I have no idea what yours is. The CPE 2+ travels about 75 rpm if that's any help.

A pre-wash is very important to smooth coating of developer. I'd double check your times and try and confirm them as correct.

[bobwysiwyg]

Thanks all for the feedback. I had just done two rolls of 35mm, also TMAX 400 in a 2 reel Paterson with no problem using the same methodology. I know some folks don't pre-wet, but I always have, one-two minutes, bang it a bit to dislodge bubbles, drain and pour in developer. Used the same methodology with the 4x5 in the Combi. I did notice one thing with the development, or attempt, at doing 6 sheets in the Combi. After the pre-wet, while draining it, there was a distinct blue-ish tint to the pre-wet solution. I never saw that on the 35mm or the two sheets I had done previously. It was dark enough for me to think, "what the...?"

The chemicals were all 69-70F degrees and as per habit, agitated first 30 seconds, and then 5 sec. every 30 seconds using inversion method for 12 min. One other difference was the first two sheets I ever developed were in straight D76 for the approp. time for that solution. The negatives did look under developed to me also, so perhaps I screwed up on the 1:1 somehow. Next sheets I will go back to straight D76 as a control.

As for my newbie mistake with the preview/dark slide, my lens (Symmar-S 5.6 150) it does allow you to trip the shutter even if the preview is still open, but it will close after tripping so a test fire is probably a good bet in the future in case I have forgotten to close it. Closing it is now pretty much ingrained, but the test firing would be a good double check.