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Well, this is useful info. I also just got a box of bulbs to try out with my Speed Graphic, for the authentic press-photo look. I don't have a synch cord, though. A standard "household"-type (two-prong) should connect to the tube, yes? The one I have is a Heiland, but I believe the connector is the same. The shutter has a standard PC-type connector.
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Good morning;
Yes, the "standard household" electrical connector was used to allow you to "extend" the cable with a regular household 120 VAC power two prong extension cord for a "really off-camera flash." We were a much more adventurous lot back then.
The regular short flash cable had a PC connector on one end and a two prong AC power type plug on the other.
There was also the Number 26 focal plane bulb, and both the 6 and the 26 had their "B" variants ( 6B and 26B ) for "color correcting" the flash for use with daylight type color film. The Guide Numbers were lower for the blue "B" versions.
Last edited by Ralph Javins; 09-06-2008 at 12:41 AM.
Reason: Forgot the word "blue"
Enjoy;
Ralph Javins, Latte Land, Washington
There is no digital effect or computer program or an "add-on" or "plug-in" for Adobe PhotoShop Creative Suite 5,
that can simulate or equal watching the magic that happens in the developing tray when you can turn on the safe light,
and see the image begin to faintly form on the print and come up on the paper in the developing tray.
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I use flash on occasion and though I had been told one cannot meter them with a flash meter my results indicate otherwise, at least with my Luna-pro digital F.
meter tests at 10 feet
#3B f45
22 f32
15 F22.5
#3clear f45.7
#22B
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 Originally Posted by Don Dudenbostel
The big danger is one going off in your fingers as you're putting it in the gun. Use a handkerchief of the paper jacket to insert it. I've had 5's and 25's go off in my fingers and it hurts like, lets say,fire.
Don,
I repeatedly read such a warning. And it is interesting to hear from someone who actually encounterd such. (Sorry for you.)
But still I don't understand how this could happen.
The igniting circuit must be closed.
Which either means that the synchro-contact has to be engaged. But this is a moment-contact. And in case the firing circuit has got a capacitotor, it will run down quite fast. Thus this will be a rare coincidence.
Or whilst insering the bulb you pressed a manual release, which quite probably would have closed the circuit as long as you pressed it.
Was it the latter what happened to you?
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Flashbulbs are somewhat unstable by nature. It is possible to have a spark jump the circuit in the flash head while inserting the bulb. It has happened to me on more than one occasion. After the first one, you learn not to be looking directly at the bulb while inserting and having something between your fingers and the bulb.
Bob
"I always take a camera, That way I never have to say 'Gee, look at that - I wish I had a camera'" -Joe Clark, H.B.S.S.
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I don't trust larger bulbs
5's and 25's have always been good
larger bulbs I've had -within reason- have almost always put out less light than the 5's ..more on the level of M2's.
I think M3's are the best buy. carry more and put out almost as much light
But with larger format another story, I assume.
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Hey, it worked, more or less. Got the synch cord, fresh batteries, and a GE #5 for the first try. Exploded rather spectacularly, necessitating a little hoovering. The plastic safety coating blew right off. Then another try with some P25's, one dud (apparently), but a couple worked fine. They are bright! I used a couple of sheets of instant prints for the tests, and I could probably have stopped down even more. It seems like some sort of shield might not be a totally bad idea.
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They shouldn't decay with age. Many have a little dot indicator if they've leaked and exposed to air. I believe those will explode.
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M3 and M3B's carry the biggest bang for their size, and it seems, price on the used market.
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