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  1. #1
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Pinhole board for 4x5 Calumet?

    My new camera has me thinking creatively.

    Are there pinhole boards that can drop in place of the standard lens boards?
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  2. #2
    Jeff Bannow's Avatar
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    There is a person on eBay selling a neat pinhole system. It's called a Skink pinhole. It fits into any copal 0 drilled board and allows you to swap out different sized pinholes, zone plates, and such. Very neat, and pretty cheap too.
    - Jeff (& sometimes Eva, too) - http://www.jeffbannow.com

  3. #3
    BradS's Avatar
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    or, you could simply tape a piece of aluminum foil over the hole of an empty lens board and poke a hole in it with a pin....well, it works for me. Really cheap too.

  4. #4
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    I like cheap, I'll try the aluminum foil trick.

    The only thing I don't like about the aluminum foil is that it's fragile and I would imagine pinhole size consistency might be an issue which would mess with the exposure consistency.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  5. #5
    Jeff Bannow's Avatar
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    The Skink pinhole is only about $25 if you want something a little nicer than foil. Nothing beats free though.
    - Jeff (& sometimes Eva, too) - http://www.jeffbannow.com

  6. #6
    BradS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by markbarendt View Post
    I like cheap, I'll try the aluminum foil trick.

    The only thing I don't like about the aluminum foil is that it's fragile and I would imagine pinhole size consistency might be an issue which would mess with the exposure consistency.
    With pinhole, you'll usually be kinda guestimating exposures anyway so, you kinda have to free yourself from worring too much about the little things.

    True, the foil is fragile. It works best if you also make some kind of shutter so that you don't actually ever touch the foil. I usually tape the foil to the inside of the lensboard and use a piece of card stock to fashion a primative shutter to the outside. You can evensandwich the foil between a couple of small pieces of corregated cardboard on the inside of the lensboard. This way the foil stands off from the lens board a little bit and survives much longer.

    The cool part about using foil is that you can easily experiment with differnt size and shape pinholes.

  7. #7
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Jeff,

    I saw the Skink and may go that way. I'd need another lensboard to do that though so I'm thinking that I can find a piece of steel, or even 2 or 3 pieces, that I can fashion solid lensboards from and drill various pinholes.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  8. #8
    DWThomas's Avatar
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    In 2005 I used birch plywood left from a project for a lensboard (the edges had to be milled down to an appropriate thickness). Made a pinhole from aluminum soda can sidewall, using the classic dimple-and-sand technique to outfit a B&J Press.

    It worked!

    DaveT

  9. #9
    BradS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DWThomas View Post
    In 2005 I used birch plywood left from a project for a lensboard (the edges had to be milled down to an appropriate thickness). Made a pinhole from aluminum soda can sidewall, using the classic dimple-and-sand technique to outfit a B&J Press.

    It worked!

    DaveT

    Very nicely done! Thanks for sharing. I like your shutter. Looks like you could reasonably get into the fractions of a second with it....again, thanks.

  10. #10
    DWThomas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradS View Post
    Very nicely done! Thanks for sharing. I like your shutter. Looks like you could reasonably get into the fractions of a second with it....again, thanks.
    Thanks! Dunno about sub-second shutter speeds -- maybe it's my advancing age and decrepitude, but I think even a second would be hard to do repeatably. The pivot screw tensions the shutter lever against a paper friction washer, the shutter stays wherever it's put. The other roundhead screws limit the travel. I originally bought ISO 400 film, but after seeing the times down around the 1 second mark, I ordered some Delta 100 to get out in the five to ten seconds (or more on the inevitably cloudy WPPD) range.

    Backing up on that link will also show a much more elaborate body cap adapter I did for my Bronica SQ-A, as well as the last four year's WPPD results. I think this year I'll go back to the B&J to use up the remnants of that film that's now four years old.

    DaveT

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