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  1. #11

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    I had a Wollensak Raptar 1a triple convertible (13",20", 25") and found it to perform very well at 13 and 20". I did use a #12 yellow filter whenever I used the 20" conversion. 8x10" contact prints looked very good. The 25" negs were a bit soft the few times I tried that focal length, but I can't say whether it was the lens or the fact that my old Korona was pretty wobbly at full extension. I did not often use it in high-flare situations when converted, however. I liked the lens very much and found the 20" conversion to be my favorite focal length for many landscape situations. No balsam separation on my particular lens, which probably was from the late 40s-early 50s, but the front element did have a tiny bit of haze that did not seem to impede performance. I can't say anything about a Turner-Reich. The only examples I have encountered were pretty badly beaten, and I've never used one.

    Peter Gomena

  2. #12

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    In addition to Evans, Edward Weston also used a 12-21-28 TR in his day. It was after Mexico & early in his relationship with Charis Wilson. He merely did OK with it.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Kasaian View Post
    FWIW a big issue with T-R is balsam seperation around the edges---it's quite common on the examples I've seen. Stopping down takes care of the problem of course and T-Rs generally go for nice prices, however I'd opt for a Wollensak 1a if I were going to go the triple convertable route.
    IIRC, Ansel Adams "Golden Gate" was shot with a TR triple convertable.
    John, do you know of an easy way to take these T-R lens apart to correct the balsam separation? I have a TR triple convertible with both cells needing the work. I discussed it once with Jim Galli, but he was not aware of how to get them apart...at least at that time.

    If anyone has any reasonable suggestions, I would welcome them. Thanks.

    Jon
    Everyone has a constitutional right to be an idiot; that does not mean you should exercise your right!

  4. #14

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    a google search suggests a book called camera repair and maintenance by tomosy he says balsam has a melting point of 150 celsius(? farenheit) he suggest building a little oven and using a hair dryer to heat the elements up (i think ive also heard people boiling the elements theres a posting on WWW.kyphoto (google will find the rest) once separated the residue is then dissolved with acetone

  5. #15
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Tomosy's book is very good and covers Thornton Pickard and Graflex SLR/Speed Graphic shutter repairs in the Google preview section

    Ian

  6. #16

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    You can separate the elements just by letting them soak in acetone, it's not quick at overnight but it is safe for the glass.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  7. #17
    JBrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Koehrer View Post
    You can separate the elements just by letting them soak in acetone, it's not quick at overnight but it is safe for the glass.
    And what does one glue them back together with? Will marker survive the acetone treatment? (labeled on the edge to keep the cells in order?)

  8. #18
    Barry S's Avatar
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    Elements can be cemented together with a UV-curing optical cement.

    http://www.optical-cement.com/cements/products.html

    http://www.skgrimes.com/popsci/index.htm

  9. #19

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    Interesting observation; From Edward Weston's Day Books he wrote that he actually went to an eye doctor because he was having trouble focusing his T-R. He discovered that his eyes were ok but the T-R was bad.

    Alan

  10. #20
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    I said no to the Turner Reich, a couple of days ago. I think I had good reliable feedback from APUG members Thanks

    Ian

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