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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter De Smidt View Post
    "GAS" means Gear Acquisition Syndrome.
    Wow, I'm using a 60 year-old press camera as a substitute for a view camera, with a 35 year old lens, and so would have thought I'd be immune to gear acquisition syndrome. In any case, thanks for the advice but I'm hesitant to remove anything from this Graflex for fear it won't go back on. For example, the viewfinder on top is broken but frozen in place; I can't remove it though I want to (as it's useless). I worry that the glass will break if I try to remove it to clean it. I think I'll stick with my current method, which is to estimate the position of the filter by holding it up to my face and rotating until I get the effect I want, then place it on the camera replicating that position. Is there any downside to this, save lack of precision, which isn't great in any case for me?

  2. #12
    Tom Nutter's Avatar
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    I can't see a problem with that...Someone mentioned earlier that the image is rotated 180 degrees by the lens, which is why it is upside-down on your ground glass, but correct me if I'm wrong somebody, that amazing feat of physics occurs after the light has passed through the filter on the front of the lens. Logic tells me that everything that occurs in front of the lens will be flipped when it reaches the ground glass, including the polarizing effect. What a strange thing to think about!

    Oh, and are you composing with your head under a dark cloth? Keeping things as dark as possible makes it easier to see what is happening on the glass.

  3. #13
    Jim Noel's Avatar
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    The brand of camera has nothhing to do with the effect of any filter.
    A polarizer has the most effect when the sun is at 90 degrees to the lens. Rotate the filter until th indicator points at the sun for the strongest effect.
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  4. #14
    Tom Nutter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lobalobo View Post
    I think I'll stick with my current method, which is to estimate the position of the filter by holding it up to my face and rotating until I get the effect I want, then place it on the camera replicating that position. Is there any downside to this, save lack of precision, which isn't great in any case for me?
    Also, an addendum to the other thing I said....make sure you are holding the filter in front of your eye the same way as it fits on the lens....I.E.---with the threads toward your eye, as if they were mounting to the lens.

  5. #15
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    Were you looking at the ground glass through the filter or at the ground glass with the filter mounted on the lens?

    The lens will have nothing to do with the effect of the filter if the filter is mounted in front of the lens. And you would have to have a pretty bizarre lens if it had any effect with the filter mounted behind the lens.

    The viewing hood on a Speed Graphic isn't light-tight and the effect of the polarizer you will see in the ground glass will be diminished by the stray light falling on the ground glass. For really examining the ground glass you need a black-out cloth or a binocular viewing hood.
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