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  1. #11

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    Here are a couple of ideas as to how to identify each individual sheet of film that you shoot.

    I am using a binary system that will number up to 256 sheets of film starting at 0

    In the field I just note down the number on each side of every holder in a binary system rather than the numbering systems shown I figure that I will not need more then 128 double sided film holders i.e.

    00000010=2, 00000011=3, 00000100=4, 00000101=5, 00000110 = 6, 1111101=125 etc.

    just use the method of marking the film holders as described on these pages

    http://www.doerzmanphoto.com/film_holders.html

    http://www.jbhphoto.com/articles/filmno/filmholder1.htm

    Hope this provides some inspiration


    nn
    Last edited by numnutz; 12-24-2009 at 05:30 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: fat fungers, bad grammar, crepe spellig

  2. #12

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    Here's a jpeg of drilled film holder rails that I got from a TVA sale. The film holder number is 54, hence the set of 5 and set of 4 dots. The two dots that are "perpendicular" to the others indicate side 2 of the holder. The exterior is also marked with the number 54, because of course, if you have many holders and you find a leaker, you have to unload them all to find number 54. So for drilling the rails to be useful, you also have to mark the exterior.

    Cheers, Steve
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails TVA.jpg  

  3. #13
    bobwysiwyg's Avatar
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    Steve, I considered this route, but finally went with binary notching. How did you avoid drilling too far? I'm assuming you removed the dark slide and slipped something under the lip?
    WYSIWYG - At least that's my goal.

    Portfolio-http://apug.org/forums/portfolios.php?u=25518

  4. #14

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    Bob,

    I didn't drill them, someone at (I assume) TVA did - I was told by Thompson's Photo that was where they came from.

    But back to the question, they make drill stops that attach to a drill bit, and most drill presses can be set to stop at a certain distance.

    Cheers, Steve

  5. #15

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    On small jobs like this I've used several layers of tape around the drill bit as a stop.

    Mike

  6. #16
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    the pdf linked to this thread may help

    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/6...tml#post878579
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by msage View Post
    I number on side "1", the other side "2". Next holder "3" and "4", on so on. That number goes with exposure info in my notebook.
    Michael
    This is what I do except I use A/B, C/D, etc....I refer to them as the "A/B holder" or the "C/D holder". The holder ID goes on the note card with the particular letter circled.

  8. #18
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CPorter View Post
    This is what I do except I use A/B, C/D, etc....I refer to them as the "A/B holder" or the "C/D holder". The holder ID goes on the note card with the particular letter circled.
    Notching the holder has the benefit that the developed film has the same number as the holder and the notes. My problem was that, even with taking notes, after development, it was very difficult to know what sheet of film went with which notes.
    Last edited by RalphLambrecht; 12-24-2009 at 10:02 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  9. #19
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    Thanks Ralph, I found the PDF file to be very interesting and have printed it for my notebook.

  10. #20
    Ektagraphic's Avatar
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    I don't think that I will notch my holders quite yet. I will just take good notes with the particular scene and then develop them in order so that when I pull them out of the tanks they are in order and they can eventually have their numbers back when they are sleeved.
    Helping to save analog photography one exposure at a time

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