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  1. #21
    Ektagraphic's Avatar
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    BTW, does anyone have a link to that thread where we discussed wether the light or dark slide of the darkslide should be in or out? I can't find it.
    Thanks.
    Helping to save analog photography one exposure at a time

  2. #22
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ektagraphic View Post
    I don't think that I will notch my holders quite yet. I will just take good notes with the particular scene and then develop them in order so that when I pull them out of the tanks they are in order and they can eventually have their numbers back when they are sleeved.
    No chance and potentially dangerous, because exposure records get confused and wrong conclusion are made for future exposures! Also, you are missing one of the biggest advantages of sheet film that way: exposing and developing according to the Zone System.

    If you hesitate to make large notches, consider very small notches. They serve the same purpose. It's really no big deal. Notching makes them better, not worse or devalued!
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  3. #23
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I just number each side of the holders consecutively and use those numbers in my notes, and between them, I pretty much always know which neg goes with which holder on the basis of content and the appearance of the negs. Maybe it is more difficult if one makes many very similar images or if the notes aren't sufficiently detailed to distinguish them. On my Grafmatics, I leave the number wheel intact to print a number on each frame. Sometimes I don't take very detailed notes, but then I usually don't think it's as important to keep track of which neg goes with which side of which holder, because they are all getting the same development treatment, and I've used the holders enough to have weeded out light leaks and such.

    One of the best systems I've seen for ID'ing filmholders I think was posted by a user on the LF forum several years ago. He used a router to cut out a rectangular space on the flap and then printed clear labels with an ID number and copyright notice and glued them into the space, so they would print on the film rebate.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  4. #24
    CPorter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David A. Goldfarb View Post
    Maybe it is more difficult if one makes many very similar images or if the notes aren't sufficiently detailed to distinguish them.
    I pretty much keep track of the negatives with good notes for the subject just as you indicate.

    But I believe when taking multiple pictures of the same subject for varying the exposure and processing later, the notch system could help avoid some major confusion, so I agree---I think I'm going to try it.

  5. #25

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    I have lost track of negatives to belonging to which holder before. I like Ralph's system, but the drilling the coded holes looks easier and serves the same purpose. Probably even quicker to do.

    I've notched all my Hasselbald backs years ago, time to get after the LF holders.

    Mike

  6. #26
    bobwysiwyg's Avatar
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    Ralph convinced me to notch and provided that PDF 'how to' I have to say it works very well. I have confidence that I can equate a negative to not only the notes taken at the time of exposure, but also ID a particular holder if there are issues with it.
    WYSIWYG - At least that's my goal.

    Portfolio-http://apug.org/forums/portfolios.php?u=25518

  7. #27
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikebarger View Post
    I have lost track of negatives to belonging to which holder before. I like Ralph's system, but the drilling the coded holes looks easier and serves the same purpose. Probably even quicker to do.

    I've notched all my Hasselbald backs years ago, time to get after the LF holders.

    Mike
    I think drilling holes is a good alternative to cutting notches, but I would still drill them in the same locations as the notches to maintain a binary system. The binary system ensures less notches or holes than any other numbering system. For example, holder #54 was shown in one post as drilling 9 holes (5+4), in the binary system this would require only 4 holes (32+16+4+2).
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  8. #28
    msage's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ektagraphic View Post
    BTW, does anyone have a link to that thread where we discussed wether the light or dark slide of the darkslide should be in or out? I can't find it.
    Thanks.
    White or silver means unexposed film. Black means exposed or empty holder.
    Michael

  9. #29
    largeformat pat's Avatar
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    I number 081001,081002 and so on (08 x 10 number 01) and then the same 4 x 5 (040501) I use a label gun to place these on the dble dark. If I want anything further then I just use tape for that side. I record anything extra also in a note book, which I always loose. I tried also a laminated sheet with line and numbers printed on then laminated. I marked this with chinagraph pencil. This was handy when I had to use lots of slides with different films.
    Pat
    What grain............................................. ...............
    Oh sorry, I forgot you don't shoot Large Format
    Large format Pat.

    http://www.largeformatpat.com

  10. #30
    Ektagraphic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by msage View Post
    White or silver means unexposed film. Black means exposed or empty holder.
    Michael
    I actually set mine up the other way because I was thinking that silver is a light and shiny color so the film has been hit with light. Black when the film has stayed in the dark......
    Helping to save analog photography one exposure at a time

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