Using a Crown Graphic - a few questions

[Lopaka]

To put it another way, with a 135 lens on 4x5, bellows distance doesn't begin to matter until you get closer than about 3 - 4 feet from your subject. At 3 feet, it's about 1/2 stop.

Bob

[mooseontheloose]

Thanks everyone for the quick replies!

I've been running around all day so haven't had a chance to go over the Crown Graphic again with advice in hand, but I'll try to do so tomorrow.

As a quick note -- I do know how to calculate for bellows extension, my question was -- is it necessary with these kinds of cameras? It seems strange that press photographers would worry about something like that while shooting on the fly (or maybe they just depended on the latitude of the film?), and the bellows doesn't seems to extend a lot compared to standard LF cameras, so i was just curious. I guess my problem is worrying too much about a problem rather than just testing it (!) and knowing for certain. I do appreciate all the answers however.

[2F/2F]

1. I know nothing about the top-mounted RFs. They are too "new school" for me.

2. The infinity stops do make sure that your rangefinder and the lens (and your distance scale) are all in synch. They are not necessary when using the ground glass (though you might as well use them).

3. It depends on the lens. IMO, you should just make a bellows extension factor chart ahead of time, rather than doing the math for each shot. It should show the distances at which exposure adjustment becomes necessary. That way, all you need to do is take a measurement, and see where it falls on the chart. (Hint: if you use your infinity stops as your reference point, and always use the same lens, you can make a "Mamiya-esque" bellows extension scale on the bed with a Sharpie or a pencil, or two strips of painter's tape if you do not want to mark the camera itself.)

4. Mine doesn't go all the way in either, but it fires the shutter. All it does is connect to a cable that moves an arm that is clipped onto the front standard, which contacts the shutter release on the lens. It is unlikely that you will feel any sort of "positive engagement" from the body shutter release button like you do with most cameras. (Mine gets kind of "squishy", but fires the shutter just fine.) I'd check to see if it fires the shutter once you cock it.

P.S. Just FYI, there are cable release threads in front of the body shutter release. The cable release physically depresses the button (just like your finger would do hand held) when it is attached here.

[Lopaka]

... my question was -- is it necessary with these kinds of cameras?......

Simple answer - not unless you are shooting very close, that is table top, or macro.

Bob

[Colin Corneau]

Bob's right re: bellows extension.

If you're worried or want to double check, check out JBrunner's site for his handy dandy bellows extension calculator.

[mopar_guy]

Graphics with the top rangefinder: Graphic Rangefinder.
Graphics with the side rangefinder: Kalart or Hugo Meyer Rangefinder.

[herb]

You are right about not worrying about the settings on most images. We used Crowns and Speeds just like one uses a 35mm these days. Shot weddings and sporting events on the fly with a big bag of holders on one hip and a big bag of #2 flash bulbs (think 60w) on the other hip.
We did graduate to film packs, which lessened the load, and if you could afford one, a big electronic flash(heavy)

I don't miss that.