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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Koehrer View Post
    Chaminoix may be easier to obtain since they're made in China. If you search the threads here I think you will find most people who have them are very satisfied.
    There have been one or two issues with the cameras and they're discussed.
    Tripod, I would get one that's rated for about twice the weight of the camera. That's a personal opinion.
    Carbon fiber will be much lighter than aluminum or wooden legs and more expensive.

    A lens hood or shade is put on the front of the lens to keep extraneous light from striking the lens and reducing contrast or increasing flare. Most of your accessories from the digi cam will not fit LF lenses. If you're careful in building your outfit you can get some very decent small and lightweight lenses with the same filter sizes. Initially you might want to learn without using them.

    The Sekonic you have is good!
    Lenses made by Schneider, Rodenstock, Nikon and Fuji are good. There are others but I can't remember. Because of where you are, new lenses will be the best bet.
    If you decide you want a special lens like a Petzval or other unique lenses check with JimGalli here on the site. He can tell you a lot about them. I'd search online to see if you like the effects.
    Thank you very much, John!
    Honestly, i have one website of a person he can build a customized LF as i want, just i have to tell him what i want and the accessories i can get from here and there.
    Yes, i read those lenses brands and i will choose one of them, sure all will be great to use.
    Good that this light meter is fine then, you saved me bucks
    Tripod, hmmmm, i have Gitzo tripods from series 1 up to series 5 which is the most sturdy, but also the ballhead or plate i will use will play a rule, so with Gitzo series 5 which is support 25kg[55 lb] is that enough or not enough? many said it is overkill for digital smaller cameras.
    So is lens shade is like a hood with my digital lenses? OK, i will get it as well.
    What about the cloth? and film holder, cable release?

  2. #12
    jp80874's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjs View Post
    Some of these folks (Phillips?) may have retired or stopped making that size camera, I'm not sure.

    Mike
    I talked to Dick Phillips yesterday. He has retired and moved to Texas. No more new RH Phillips cameras.

    John Powers

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by jp80874 View Post
    I talked to Dick Phillips yesterday. He has retired and moved to Texas. No more new RH Phillips cameras.

    John Powers
    Good, one option is out then

  4. #14

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    Tareq,
    The Gitzo's you have will certainly be enough for any camera that you have considered.
    Anything from the 3 series up will work.
    Although you have someone who can build a camera available, I would look for something commercially made simply because the unforeseen errors in construction have been worked out. I mean that sometimes, one movement may interfere with another for lack of clearance.
    I don't mean to be insulting, but if you or the person building the camera aren't familiar with how the movements are used or are supposed to work then how do you know it's right? Although....Take a look at Rayment Kirby cameras, he has some drawing/plans on his website that could help if you have one built.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Koehrer View Post
    Tareq,
    The Gitzo's you have will certainly be enough for any camera that you have considered.
    Anything from the 3 series up will work.
    Although you have someone who can build a camera available, I would look for something commercially made simply because the unforeseen errors in construction have been worked out. I mean that sometimes, one movement may interfere with another for lack of clearance.
    I don't mean to be insulting, but if you or the person building the camera aren't familiar with how the movements are used or are supposed to work then how do you know it's right? Although....Take a look at Rayment Kirby cameras, he has some drawing/plans on his website that could help if you have one built.
    Good point!!!
    I think that person is popular because it is recommend in that large format forum by other shooters, so i don't think they will recommend me to him if he is not familiar to what he is doing or designing, but good you told me that, so i will give it more research, and the price he gave me is not that much difference than those well known brands, so i may not get one from him at the end, still i have maybe 8 months to 1 year to decide on a large format unless i can afford good amount of money then i may decide earlier.

    Sorry to say that, but i think i will go with a crazy idea, which is to buy 2 Large format cameras, one for field and outdoors, and one dedicated for studio and still life works.

  6. #16

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    There's yet another consideration, you may already have the answer in your last post. Two different cameras. Most not all people will use a flat bed or field camera outdoors for landscapes and the like and a monorail camera for still life or architecture where more movements are needed or wanted.
    Field cameras tend to be lighter and less bulky than monorails especially when you consider bellows length of an 8X10 will be over 30".
    Although it's not new or especially light, one of the best IMO is the Deardorff. Only available used. It was designed to be an architectural camera & has most movements you could want. There's one in the classified section now that has just been refinished. A monorail will have more movements though.
    If you look at photographers whose work you like consider a camera similar to what they use. One of my favorites is Edward Weston & he primarily used a flat bed 8X10.
    His son Brett began with 8X10 & eventually went to 6X6 Rolleis. So bigger isn't always better, it depends on what and how you see and the way you work.
    Last edited by John Koehrer; 02-09-2010 at 10:45 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  7. #17

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    Before you spend your loot on new gear, I suggest readng Steve Simmons book "Using The View Camera." It goes into in depth discussions on equipment and will clear up a lot of problems new to LF photographers tend to experience.

  8. #18

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    Thank you very much!
    I know that 4x5 is more popular or even more practical, but in fact i will buy that large format only for fun and i will not use it always everyday, so that i want to have something larger than just 4x5, i even was looking to go larger than 8x10 but i think even 8x10 is difficult to find many film and develop these days, so i will stay with 8x10, and i can use a 4x5 holder/reducer so it is like i have 2 in 1, i know it is heavy but really i don't have any big important reason to go with large format rather than for fun!

  9. #19
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    Sinar F1 or F2 might be the ticket
    Cleared the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by nick mulder View Post
    Sinar F1 or F2 might be the ticket
    I choose that for indoors and still life and studio works. [i said i choose or will choose, still didn't buy it yet, maybe next year].

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