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  1. #1
    kauffman v36's Avatar
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    New LF user needs help understanding backs

    hi, im very very new to LF, as in ive never shot one, only held, looked at, and read alooooooottttt about it.

    anyways, my dilemma, this summer ive decided my project will be to build a point & shoot 4x5 camera with some wide angle lens on it (37-75mm, havent decided yet). i will be going the route of using an old olympus lens' focusing mechanism and rigging it up with the lens to achieve focusing w/o bellows or sliding box. the camera body will most probably be wood, ill probably make a mockup first, then a version using nice wood, and maybe, if i can get my friend to do/teach me how to use the CNC machine in the architecture lab at school make a body out of exotic wood and a removable cone (fotoman type) out of aluminum.

    my problem lies in the back of the camera. im simply clueless as to how LF backs really work. im a MF whore and understand them completely but this is a diff. beast. i have a basic knowledge of 4x5 film holders but my problem is where do they go? if there a "back" persay on 4x5 cameras, or do you just slide the holder into grooves made into the camera. also, i want to be able to use a ground glass/lexan. what do i need to read/learn and buy to do this? are there "backs" available that just accept the GG and film holders? is that even how it works, lol? i dont think so.

    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum147/...-s-camera.html
    that is sort of what i want to do but he did not explain how he went about creating the back of the camera which is my biggest confusion.

    and finally, to avoid the usual but necessary questions. i am not doing this because i think its cheaper, LF cameras are extremely cheap now on fleebay which im aware of, this is as much about taking pictures for me as it is designing something and building it (im a photo & architecture major so the designing is normal). this will be expensive and time/labor intensive and i understand that.

    with that said, sorry for boring you, i just really need some help

    Thanks,
    kauffman

  2. #2
    36cm2's Avatar
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    Kauffman, if I understand your question most LF field cameras simply have a rectangular frame that contains a ground glass upon which you compose. This frame is held tightly against the open back of the camera with a spring loaded hinge. When you are done composing on the ground glass, you pull back the unhinged side of the back, slide in your filmholder (or Graflex or other back), making sure the holder. Grooves align with the back appropriately to ensure light tightness,then remove your darkslide and shoot. I hope this is what you were trying to understand. If not, sorry.
    "There is a time and place for all things, the difficulty is to use them only in their proper time and places." -- Robert Henri

  3. #3

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    I can't answer your questions but I believe some time ago Peter Gowland made a LF camera intended to be hand-held and without a bellows. You might try a search for him and track down more information.

  4. #4
    kauffman v36's Avatar
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    36cm2, thank you for clearing that up, thats exactly what i was looking for. what i need to see now is a detailed image or diagram of it all because at the moment i dont see how the frame w/ GG pulls away and allows the film holder in. you said the "unhinged" side of the back, do you mean the frame w/GG only has spring tension on one side?

  5. #5

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    I just quickly googled Peter Gowland and clicked on cameras in the topics. There are excellent pictures of the cameras that may give you ideas.

  6. #6
    36cm2's Avatar
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    Posted wirelessly..

    Exactly. I have a Tachihara, so that's my frame of reference. Google Images the name and you'll come up with something that shows the back. The hinge is attached on the upper and lower edges of the back and on the camera body edges at a point about 2/3 toward one side. You can lift both lateral edges, but one side lifts more easily than the other. On that side there is a bump along the edge of the camera body backside that bumps up against a correlating bump on the film holder (or graflex,etc.) and let's you know when the holder is in the correct position so that when you let go of the hinged back it pushes everything lighttight against the camera again. Sorry if this isn't clear. It's from memory, wirelessly posted from a parking lot (picking up the wife at work).
    "There is a time and place for all things, the difficulty is to use them only in their proper time and places." -- Robert Henri

  7. #7
    36cm2's Avatar
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    Posted wirelessly..

    To clarify, there are two actual hinges, one on the top side and one on the bottom side. The right and left sides open when lifted to receive a holder.
    "There is a time and place for all things, the difficulty is to use them only in their proper time and places." -- Robert Henri

  8. #8

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    I am on the same page as you - I figured it out by playing around with things until I understood what has to happen. Moving levers and trying to figure out what lever locks or unlocks the gg to be able to rotate it, pulling on levers to see what moves or not. The key to this is "Be Gentle" and "Don't force anything" or damage to the camera may follow. Those are general good rules for any camera really. But LF is a different beast. I am still playing with the camera, the movements, practicing putting film backs in, taking the slide out, tripping the shutter, putting the dark slide back in (with the opposite side showing so I know if it is "exposed" or not) and then taking the film back out, turn it over, do it again. Practice until you are real comfortable with the movements, the levers that lock the movements, both opening and closing them, double checking yourself each time. It's a slow process for me but it will improve my efficiency when I do start shooting.

    One thing I have found about Apug - if you have a question, people here are very willing to help in every way they can. I have learned more here in less time that anywhere else online.

    Good luck to you.
    Tim Flynn

  9. #9

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    If the project is a point and shoot camera, then the complexities of the standard spring back are unnecessary. The film holder just has to be clamped to the back of the camera. The film depth inside the holder with the darkslide removed is standardized. Older technical cameras require that you exchange the ground glass back for the film holder. If you will be using an accessory finder you should only need to worry about attaching the standard holder or a roll-film back, and setting the infinity focus. The rest is a light-tight box with some ergonomic considerations.

    I just constructed (built is too grandiose a term) a pinhole camera using a wooden cigar box. The lid accepts the film holder and acts as the clamp to locate the holder. It is not pretty, but it works. Obviously pinhole requirements are less exacting than a lens mount. http://grahampatterson.home.comcast....ole/index.html
    I feel, therefore I photograph.

  10. #10
    kauffman v36's Avatar
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    grahamp, you're completely right for a point and shoot with hyperfocal focusing, which i dont want to use yet. i am going to attempt rigging up the focusing mount from an olympus lens as some have done and being able to focus a certain amount. which means i need a ground glass. im afraid the spring back i will need to source as its a certain standard across the board.

    so any suggestions on a cheap spring back with opening for ground glass i can buy and permanently attach to my camera box? preferably one new enough that it accepts all the common film holders. thanks

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