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  1. #11
    Ralph Javins's Avatar
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    Good morning, David;

    I do not know how you did it, but it works. Thank you. The link you provided went right to it; all 1,509 items they have for sale.

    I had tried it as "heavystar," "heavy star," "Heavystar," "Heavy Star," in their listing for sellers, but it kept saying, "Not Found."

    There are some interesting things in there. I will need more time to go through all of them.

    Again, thank you for the link.
    Enjoy;

    Ralph Javins, Latte Land, Washington

    There is no digital effect or computer program or an "add-on" or "plug-in" for Adobe PhotoShop Creative Suite 5,
    that can simulate or equal watching the magic that happens in the developing tray when you can turn on the safe light,
    and see the image begin to faintly form on the print and come up on the paper in the developing tray.

  2. #12
    photobizzz's Avatar
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    Ok, not sure why it is so hard to find a 105mm hood but here is heavystar's store on ebay

    Heavystar's eBay Storefront

    Here is a 105mm metal tele hood from a seller I have bought from before and is trustworthy

    105mm hood

    Hope this helps...
    CONTAX RTS II - Zeiss 28/2.8 Distagon, 35/2.8 Distagon, 50/1.4 Planar

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    "A picture is a poem without words"
    ~Horace~

  3. #13
    jeffzeitlin's Avatar
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    105 mm is the filter / diameter size not the lens

  4. #14
    photobizzz's Avatar
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    So he you want a slip on hood for 105mm OD of the lens?
    CONTAX RTS II - Zeiss 28/2.8 Distagon, 35/2.8 Distagon, 50/1.4 Planar

    Gallery


    "A picture is a poem without words"
    ~Horace~

  5. #15
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by photobizzz View Post
    Here is a 105mm metal tele hood from a seller I have bought from before and is trustworthy

    105mm hood

    Hope this helps...
    That's the one that I have two of, made in India, and it's 105mm filter diameter front (female) and back (male), so it screws into a lens that takes 105mm filters and can stack. It's a "tele" hood, because it's longer than what the manufacturer offers as a "normal" or a "wide" hood in that diameter, of course the length of the hood you need depends on the lens and the format, so it may be too long for your use. I used it on a 500mm lens for 6x6, so I needed to stack two of them.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  6. #16
    jeffzeitlin's Avatar
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    Thanks all - so the recommended items is a screw in with a 105 mm diameter and metal. It is tele, but I can cut it down to meet my needs. Anyone got and idea if the length will work on a 300 mm Symmar?

  7. #17
    jeffzeitlin's Avatar
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    Thanks all - I ordered one to try

  8. #18
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    On 8x10" it would probably be too long, on 5x7" or 4x5" it should be fine and give you some room for movements. Of course a compendium shade is more versatile on a view camera, but sometimes a solid shade is more practical.

    Over on the lfphoto.info forum a while back Robert Zeichner I think posted instructions for making a barndoor lens shade, which is very compact for the field and a very effective shade.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  9. #19
    jeffzeitlin's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the information.
    How long should it be or how much should I shorten it for an 8x10?
    Thanks

  10. #20
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Hard to say without knowing the image circle of the lens and movements available on the camera. I usually just try to determine such things empirically by making a temporary shade out of paper that I can slide in and out around the front cell of the lens, applying camera movements, and seeing how long it can be before it vignettes, checking through the cut corners of the groundglass to see if I can see the shade, or for cameras without a groundglass with cut corners, sighting the other way through the lens and seeing if the corners of the groundglass are obstructed by the shade.

    Of course if you make it short enough to allow full movements, you won't cut off all the non-image light that can reduce contrast or cause bellows flare, but for that it's easier to use a compendium shade or have a few shades of different lengths or a three-position rubber zoom shade, but I'm not sure that last option is available in 105mm (Hama makes rubber zoom shades).
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

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