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  1. #21

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    If you are on a budget then I second the taco method or the Unicolor Drum.
    The taco method is simple to do, I still use it for 3x4 film in a Paterson tank.
    I use a Unicolor Drum for 4x5 with great success albeit with a little leaking.

  2. #22

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    Dear mwdake;
    If your Unicolor print drum is leaking, make a new gasket for it from the polyethylene lid from a coffee can or the lid from a plastic container of Cool Whip and make the width 1/8 inch wider...voila! no more leaks.
    Denise Libby

  3. #23
    sidearm613's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ralnphot View Post
    Congrats on joining the ranks of LF. First off, lets keep developing simple. I use the 'taco' method.It involves a Paterson (or similar) tank(no reels, center column stays)) thats tall enough to accept the film standing on edge(4"+)and folded ala taco and held by rubber band(emulsion facing inward), I can fit up to 6 films in my tank. Process as you would 120 or 35mm. Try practicing with paper negatives until you are comfortable with the entire process from loading film holders to developing and all in between.
    You are correct in your thought s on 8x10 lenses, just make sure any lens you pick up will cover your format. Obviously, the larger the image circle the more movements you can utilize from the camera.
    Have fun with the new toy!
    The taco method as you describe it seems to be begging for uneven development. I'll take your word for it, as I've never tried it. I really do want that Nikor steel tank. I'm a stainless steel guy. Oh, if Hewes made a 4x5 developing tank!
    David

    A Holga is an ugly woman, a Brownie is a delicious treat.

    dromanophoto.blogspot.com/

  4. #24
    michaelbsc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by archer View Post
    ...If your Unicolor print drum is leaking, make a new gasket for it from the polyethylene lid from a coffee can or the lid from a plastic container of Cool Whip and make the width 1/8 inch wider...voila! no more leaks.
    Denise Libby
    Hey, great suggestion. Thanks!
    Michael Batchelor
    Industrial Informatics, Inc.
    www.industrialinformatics.com

    The camera catches light. The photographer catches life.

  5. #25
    sidearm613's Avatar
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    Okay folks, follow up question: Now I'm finally getting around to equipping my camera with a modern lens. I love wide angle work, and there is this 90mm f/5.6 Caltar at my local Samys that I've got my eye on. Will I need a recessed lens board or bag bellows to use such a lens on a 4x5? I searched this online and got very conflicting reports. From what I get, 90mm on 4x5 is on the borderline where the 10 photographers and 11 opinions seem to occur. Some say that you can even get movements galore with not recessed board and no bellows, some say that I need both to do anything more than barely achieve infinity focus. Most are somewhere in the middle. What do you APUGers think? I would like to be able to just use standard board and bellows. I don't need movements galore, but I would like some...
    David

    A Holga is an ugly woman, a Brownie is a delicious treat.

    dromanophoto.blogspot.com/

  6. #26

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    Is your Calumet the wide angle (architecture version) or the normal camera? I assume that you're referring to the 400 series, right? The architecture camera has the standards configured so that they'll smoosh together closer to accomodate shorter lenses. It's been awhile since I've had one of these (snif!) so maybe someone else here knows how to identify the them.
    If you've got one, you're sittin' pretty!

  7. #27
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    My own experience with a 4.5 90mm Nikkor on a Sinar P:

    Bag bellows - essential, especially for big shifts, you just cant bend them that way without damaging them

    Recessed lens board - I've only twice thought it'd be helpful, both times trying to focus major tilts but in stopping down the lens and using a hyperfocal infinity focus I got around the issue... The real solution would be that Sinar didn't make the P standard rail connection blocks or tripod thingies as large as they do, maybe not an issue with your camera - maybe it is, hence the different opinions...

    If anyone says their bellows works then either they have a super soft/short one (no good for portraiture on longer focal lengths) or their lens has poop coverage and/or they just aren't shifting enough to notice...
    Cleared the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

  8. #28
    sidearm613's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Kasaian View Post
    Is your Calumet the wide angle (architecture version) or the normal camera? I assume that you're referring to the 400 series, right? The architecture camera has the standards configured so that they'll smoosh together closer to accomodate shorter lenses. It's been awhile since I've had one of these (snif!) so maybe someone else here knows how to identify the them.
    If you've got one, you're sittin' pretty!
    Hi John. I'm not sure if mine is a 400 series or not, but from what I get, my model is the standard version of the year this particular camera was manufactured. I don't think that is architecture specific, but from what I get it does have very flexible bellows, and for what its worth I don't think there are even any bag bellows made for it. There is a recessed board though...
    David

    A Holga is an ugly woman, a Brownie is a delicious treat.

    dromanophoto.blogspot.com/

  9. #29

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    I use a Caltar 90mmf5.6 HR (the Topcon made lens) on my Wista DX with a flat Linhof board. The bellows are the limiting factor for shift/rise/fall. If I had a camera with a bag bellows option I'd use it, but I can do all I need to do with the fixed bellows. If you want to push a 90mm f5.6 to the limits of coverage then a bag bellows is probably wise. This lens uses 77mm filters, and the rear element is almost as large - it only just fits through the Wista's front standard 8-)
    I feel, therefore I photograph.

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