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  1. #11
    dhosten's Avatar
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    Shipping from the UK is not bad, I buy from the auction site there often, and Royal Mail Small Packet is usually 2-3 pound, so less then $5.00 US . Might be worth it if it is hard to find.
    fwiw I was selling my own 1/21 Honeywell Pentax Spotmeter and realized the battery issue after the auction ended. I communicated with the buyer and told him it was no good without the adapter, and we electronically shook hands and walked away. My cost was about $10 for the auction seller fees, but its worth it to keep a good auction rep. I'm mostly a buyer there and a sometime seller.

  2. #12

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    Gossen makes an adapter. It works. Price has gone up since I did mine about 8 or 9 years ago.

    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...older_for.html

    tim in san jose
    Where ever you are, there you be.

  3. #13

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    Any metal coins that fit will work. Remember that the current drain of a meter is very small so the voltage drop differences due to different metals will be tiny as well. The original battery cases and straps in the cameras are steel, not a really great conductor, so it's not necessary to worry much. My TL-Electro is very happy with a 3-volt Duracell 1/3N and a short #6 nut and bolt all placed in some tubing.

  4. #14
    Diapositivo's Avatar
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    A good repairer should be able to make a small voltage regulator circuit inside your device (camera, or exposure meter) if there is space. That would be the definitive solution, it should cost you some tenths of dollars.

    Any other solution can be quite acceptable but, as far as I understand, it is not perfect as typically a device having a mercury battery does not have a voltage regulator circuit inside. Even with adapters, the voltage of silver batteries, and even more of alkaline batteries, is not stable throughout the battery life, so the results of the light meter might be slightly off.

    Generally speaking, if you only use negatives, you can disregard any small imprecision. And if you need good precision, a separate light meter might be better. But if for whatever reason you want to put your camera to its best possible state of performance, then the best thing is to insert a voltage regulator inside, after which also cheap alkaline batteries will be fine.

    This is what I gathered so far but I'm not an expert in electronics so any rectification is solicited and welcome.

    Fabrizio
    Fabrizio Ruggeri fine art photography site: http://fabrizio-ruggeri.artistwebsites.com
    Stock images at Imagebroker: http://www.imagebroker.com/#/search/ib_fbr

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by pbromaghin View Post
    Those are Euro-pennies. Would they conduct the same as American?
    No idea. Please did between the cushions of a European couch and report back.
    Last edited by Matthew Rusbarsky; 04-23-2011 at 08:15 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: spelling

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Diapositivo View Post
    A good repairer should be able to make a small voltage regulator circuit inside your device (camera, or exposure meter) if there is space. That would be the definitive solution, it should cost you some tenths of dollars.

    Any other solution can be quite acceptable but, as far as I understand, it is not perfect as typically a device having a mercury battery does not have a voltage regulator circuit inside. Even with adapters, the voltage of silver batteries, and even more of alkaline batteries, is not stable throughout the battery life, so the results of the light meter might be slightly off.

    Generally speaking, if you only use negatives, you can disregard any small imprecision. And if you need good precision, a separate light meter might be better. But if for whatever reason you want to put your camera to its best possible state of performance, then the best thing is to insert a voltage regulator inside, after which also cheap alkaline batteries will be fine.

    This is what I gathered so far but I'm not an expert in electronics so any rectification is solicited and welcome.

    Fabrizio
    A good repairer will tell you to pay the 40 bucks and do it correctly.
    Silver oxide batteries do have different use curves, so replace them more often. They fortunately are cheap in most parts of the civilized world so this should not be an inconvenience.

    The difference in voltage between Mercury and Silver oxide batteries is enough to screw up even negative film. If you just want an idea, sunny 16 works better than the wrong data given by a light meter. Personally, I like my equipment to work the way it's suppose to.

    Developing negatives has enough variables to control that adding one more (What camera did I shoot this in?) doesn't seem like a great idea.

    tim in san jose
    Where ever you are, there you be.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by pbromaghin View Post
    Those are Euro-pennies. Would they conduct the same as American?
    Not these days, what with the exchange rate of the dollar down with respect to the Euro.

    (Sorry, couldn't resist the comment.)

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by alanrockwood View Post
    Not these days, what with the exchange rate of the dollar down with respect to the Euro.

    (Sorry, couldn't resist the comment.)
    Do they look funny when they throw a ball?

  9. #19
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    Let me see..
    2 of the old PX640 would give you 2.7V. 2 of the ZA675 will give you 2.8V. So you're about 3.5% over-voltage - shouldnt be too much of an error, should it?

    6 euro cents plus 82c standard post = 88c
    Send me 88 euro cents via Paypal and I'll post you 6 shiny euro cent coins
    Last edited by Sethasaurus; 05-01-2011 at 02:33 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  10. #20
    kwall's Avatar
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    Would these work?

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