Developing film question

[Citizen_Erased]

Hello everyone. My semester has started and with it my foray into 4x5 photography. So far after shooting a few sheets of film and developing them myself I must say that I am truly in love with this camera. It trumps everything I've done up until now and it's so much more versatile then a dslr, I can't help but grin while i'm under the darkcloth setting up my shot.

Yet I digress.

I came here to ask a question. I'm currently using 400 TMAX and I've been getting a lot of thin negatives. Could it be something wrong with my processing times? I shot some HP5 last week and used the same times. I didn't have any problems with those negatives.

Here are the times I'm using:

5 1/2 minutes HC-110
1 min stop bath
7 min fixer
10 min wash
1 min photoflo

Thanks,

-Tom-

[pgomena]

It's really hard to say from the information you have given just what the "problem" might be. Without knowing how you meter a scene or subject, the lighting conditions, and a whole bunch of developing information (i.e. developer dilution, agitation, temperature) it's almost impossible to answer your question.

Comparing the results of two different films is meaningless unless you test them side-by-side in identical situations. There are too many variables involved. For starters, the films you used have completely different characteristics.

Both of the films you mention are excellent products capable of producing outstanding results. Learn to test your materials methodically in controlled situations and branch out from there.

I would suggest you pick one film and developer and stick with it until you know how that particular combination performs in various conditions.

Peter Gomena

[jeffreyg]

Your developing time seems to be correct. I don't think you need a full one minute stop bath (acid or water?) but doubt that is the problem. have you used the same dilution and temperature for both? Did you expose both correctly? It's possible you had your light meter film speed set differently and didn't notice. Why not take some test negatives of the same set-up and settings with both films at the same time and develop them together to see what happens. If the results are better than the original you'll know something was off the first time -- probably the exposure.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

[Citizen_Erased]

After reading this, I checked my light meter and it looks like my partner had set the ISO to 200. So that could be a problem. My instructor had mentioned setting the ISO to 200 for a reason, like a stop difference, it didn't make much sense to me when he said it. If anyone can shed some light on that please feel free to.

In regards to scene metering, I just walk up to my subject and meter it. The developer is a stock solution mixed at a 1:7 ratio and it's room temperature. I'm not sure, the chemistry is left in drums for us to use. What would the optimum temperature be for HC-110?

I'm not aggressively agitating the tray, just a gentle rocking motion every two seconds.

[Sirius Glass]

Setting the meter on ISO 200 would make the negatives denser.

I strongly recomment that meter readings be taken either minimizing the sky or avoiding the sky in the measurement. The sky is a 10K to 14K black body and it can throw off reflectance light reading. On the other hand when using an incidence meter, sky light is part of the illumination and should be included.

Please give us feedback on how our advice works for you and feel free to ask any questions.

Steve

[jeffreyg]

Room temperature can vary. Most developing charts will give a time/temperature. Generally best used at 68F or 70F but the warmer the shorter the time and very short times are not recommended. I would stick to 68F. Perhaps your instructor had tested the equipment and found that 200 was the correct ISO. There are some tests you can do to establish your personal film speeds depending on your equipment, the film used, etc. Metering off a subject can give misleading info. The meter basically sees everything as about 18% reflective. So a brighter or a less reflective subject will still be seen as reflecting 18%. Search previous APUG forums for a wealth of info.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

[Ian C]

Kodak’s recommendations for T-Max 400 sheet film in HC-110 is here on page 3.

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...bs/j24/j24.pdf

Assuming dilution B, the times range from 6 to 9 minutes for tray development, depending upon the developing temperature.

Post #1 says 5 ½ minutes. Could be a recipe for underdevelopment.

[Grainy]

do you use the bellow factor to calculate the correct exposure when needed? I haven't used a 4x5 yet, so I don't know if this could have anything to do with thin negatives.

[jeffreyg]

Good point bellows extension does count. Check http://www.digitaltruth.com for developing times. I'm not sure of their accuracy but they list most B&W films and developer combos.

[Citizen_Erased]

I do not use the bellows factor to calculate exposure. My instructor never mentioned that. I'm using a Calumet Cadet, so I just extend the front and rear standards a few inches out from the middle. Then I use the rear standard to focus.