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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by BradleyK View Post
    An upfront admission: After 30-odd years as a shooter, I have never - until this past spring, with the purchase of a MD2/MB1 - used NiCads in any of my equipment.

    So, my question: Do NiCads discharge of their own volition? If so, how quickly? Why do I ask? As soon as I picked up the aforementioned drive, I charged up the batteries, bolted on the drive, and went out shooting the same evening. After shooting a couple of rolls, I set the camera aside for a spell (as I mentioned in another post, I rotate through my various bodies over the course of the year). For most of the past several months (excepting the Highland Games in Victoria and the Calgary Stampede), I have spent the bulk of my time shooting black and white (PanF Plus, of course) landscape work with the Blads. This weekend past, I went to grab the F2AS to shoot the Anomie Festival at SFU; to my surprise, the batteries were near death! Is this typical, or is it rebuild time?
    NiCad's are very finicky. The only thing they are good for is very high discharge current (similar to the cold cranking amps rating in car battery). Other than that they don't have nearly as much capacity as NiMH, high self discharge rate, memory and usually goes bad in a few years the most. So in your case if you want to run your MD at high speed then rebuild the batteries with new NiMH cells. Otherwise use AA alkalines which are much more reliable but the MD-2 won't run at top speed with AA and does require the MN-2 to run at top speed.

  2. #12
    Worker 11811's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tkamiya View Post
    ... It may be holding decent charges for weeks and months, and die very quickly in a way it discharges very fast one day...
    Don't forget that a NiCD battery has a sharp "knee" in its characteristic discharge curve as compared to other types of batteries. Under normal conditions, they will go for as much as 70% of their useful per-charge life span then suddenly loose power. Other types of batteries gradually lose power over the length of their discharge curve. Further, that "knee" gets even sharper as the battery ages.

    An old, worn out or overcharged NiCd batter can literally work well for a few minutes when freshly charged then suddenly die off in a matter of seconds.
    Randy S.

    In girum imus nocte et consumimur igni.

    -----

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/randystankey/

  3. #13

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    Thank goodness for rechargeable lithiums. I won't buy anything now that uses nicads.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  4. #14
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    Lithiums have their own issues/ risks as well. They're not without trouble - but certainly less than NiCd.
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

  5. #15
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    I honestly didn't think they still sold NiCd's anymore, thought everything was NiMH or Lion based... hmmm someone's been shopping at the dollar store...

    Go get some Energizer or Duracell NiMH's I use those for my flash for weddings and they take a lot of heat and last me about a year or two, and their chargers actually tell you when the battery is dead and you throw it out..
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  6. #16
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    Some cameras may place a slight load on the battery, even when switched off. For cameras that may sit idle for long periods, I take the batteries out. This may cause the camera to revert to default settings.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    I honestly didn't think they still sold NiCd's anymore, thought everything was NiMH or Lion based... hmmm someone's been shopping at the dollar store...

    Go get some Energizer or Duracell NiMH's I use those for my flash for weddings and they take a lot of heat and last me about a year or two, and their chargers actually tell you when the battery is dead and you throw it out..
    Stone,

    The NiCads in question are the (Nikon) MN-1s that came with the MD2/MB1/MH-1 set that I stumbled upon back in April. This was the set I mentioned in my WTB posting at that time. Having apprehensions about their ancestry, with no prior experience with NiCads, and lacking the original MS-1 set, I immediately began looking for a pair (I have since found and purchased a set and am now looking for a second pair for another MD2/MB1 drive for an F2A body).
    An assortment of F-series Nikons with quite a few Nikkors, a pair of M6s with some Leitz glass, a pair of 500c/ms with a wide range of Zeiss optics and, just to help keep Duracell solvent, a D800.

    Favourite films: (1). KE ("Kodachrome Era"): 35mm: PKM25 and PKR64, HP5/Tri-X; 120: PKR64, PanF, FP4. (2). PKE ("Post-Kodachrome Era"): (a) 35mm: E100G, HP5 Plus/Tri-X and Delta 3200; (b) 120: E100G, PanF Plus, FP4 Plus, TMax 100.

  8. #18
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradleyK View Post
    Stone,

    The NiCads in question are the (Nikon) MN-1s that came with the MD2/MB1/MH-1 set that I stumbled upon back in April. This was the set I mentioned in my WTB posting at that time. Having apprehensions about their ancestry, with no prior experience with NiCads, and lacking the original MS-1 set, I immediately began looking for a pair (I have since found and purchased a set and am now looking for a second pair for another MD2/MB1 drive for an F2A body).
    OH, yes the old NiCad's that were camera specific are rough stuff... I have a Canon 1V with the battery grip, and I had 2 batteries and one wouldn't hold a charge, and the other worked well until it exploded on me leaking acid everywhere... after that I just decided to go without the grip, or insert the special AA adapter cartridge that it came with. That's more useful anyway, I can use my Energizer NiMH batteries in it and plus I can travel anywhere in the world and still have juice as AA's are everywhere ... I'm not familiar with Nikon but if you can get one of those AA cartridges for the Nikon I suggest doing that, if not, I'm sorry but at least for the time being you have a battery that works even if it needs to be recharged often. Just make sure you charge it to full, but then don't over charge it for very long (over an hour) once it's at full capacity, that will let you keep it going the longest, and don't discharge it fully, once it's down to 10% or so, make sure to recharge it fully, the old batteries are the opposite of new ones, whereas with LiIon batteries you're SUPPOSED to discharge them fully, but not NiCad batteries.
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    OH, yes the old NiCad's that were camera specific are rough stuff... I have a Canon 1V with the battery grip, and I had 2 batteries and one wouldn't hold a charge, and the other worked well until it exploded on me leaking acid everywhere... after that I just decided to go without the grip, or insert the special AA adapter cartridge that it came with. That's more useful anyway, I can use my Energizer NiMH batteries in it and plus I can travel anywhere in the world and still have juice as AA's are everywhere ... I'm not familiar with Nikon but if you can get one of those AA cartridges for the Nikon I suggest doing that, if not, I'm sorry but at least for the time being you have a battery that works even if it needs to be recharged often. Just make sure you charge it to full, but then don't over charge it for very long (over an hour) once it's at full capacity, that will let you keep it going the longest, and don't discharge it fully, once it's down to 10% or so, make sure to recharge it fully, the old batteries are the opposite of new ones, whereas with LiIon batteries you're SUPPOSED to discharge them fully, but not NiCad batteries.
    Stone,

    I will give the set another charge and use them until they are completely drained to determine their actual longevity under regular usage. If the set won't hold a charge for a "reasonable" load, I will either send them in for a rebuild (numbers on the pair indicate a manufacture of 04/78) or press the set, with charger, into service as a paper weight.
    An assortment of F-series Nikons with quite a few Nikkors, a pair of M6s with some Leitz glass, a pair of 500c/ms with a wide range of Zeiss optics and, just to help keep Duracell solvent, a D800.

    Favourite films: (1). KE ("Kodachrome Era"): 35mm: PKM25 and PKR64, HP5/Tri-X; 120: PKR64, PanF, FP4. (2). PKE ("Post-Kodachrome Era"): (a) 35mm: E100G, HP5 Plus/Tri-X and Delta 3200; (b) 120: E100G, PanF Plus, FP4 Plus, TMax 100.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Worker 11811 View Post
    Don't forget that a NiCD battery has a sharp "knee" in its characteristic discharge curve

    Yes, I know. I wasn't going to get into that, for OP may not really want to know about all the technical details. Maybe he does....

    Nicad is so finicky. I never trusted them.
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

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