It all depends upon whether you are wanting to do hand-held action shots or want to work with a tripod and achieve a full range of tones.
The latter is my preference for night photography. For this type of work, I meter (as usual) the darkest shadow where I wish to retain detail and then place that on Zone III (this means closing the aperture by two stops from what the meter says or increasing the shutter speed by two stops from what the meter says) and then use this as my base exposure and then apply correction for reciprocity failure. With Ilford Delta 400 the following corrections work for me:
5 seconds use 10 seconds
10 seconds use 25 seconds
15 seconds use 45 seconds
20 seconds use 80 seconds
25 seconds use 125 seconds
I then process in a two-bath developer (stops the highlights blowing out). For me this works reliably every time, no need to bracket or play around with push processing. Here is an example:
If, on the other hand, you want to shoot hand-held and capture action you will need to shoot the film at a higher ISO (accepting loss of shadow detail) and then compensate with extended processing in a suitable developer.