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  1. #11
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    just take an incident reading with a goog low-light meter such as any of the gossens.assume that to be on Zone IV and let the rest fall whereever it may.Also,I find myself trustingthe NikonDSLR lightdisplay more and more.Their matrix metering is nothing short of amazing.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphLambrecht View Post
    just take an incident reading with a goog low-light meter such as any of the gossens.assume that to be on Zone IV and let the rest fall whereever it may.Also,I find myself trustingthe NikonDSLR lightdisplay more and more.Their matrix metering is nothing short of amazing.
    What's a Nikon DSLR?

  3. #13
    David Allen's Avatar
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    It all depends upon whether you are wanting to do hand-held action shots or want to work with a tripod and achieve a full range of tones.

    The latter is my preference for night photography. For this type of work, I meter (as usual) the darkest shadow where I wish to retain detail and then place that on Zone III (this means closing the aperture by two stops from what the meter says or increasing the shutter speed by two stops from what the meter says) and then use this as my base exposure and then apply correction for reciprocity failure. With Ilford Delta 400 the following corrections work for me:

    5 seconds use 10 seconds
    10 seconds use 25 seconds
    15 seconds use 45 seconds
    20 seconds use 80 seconds
    25 seconds use 125 seconds

    I then process in a two-bath developer (stops the highlights blowing out). For me this works reliably every time, no need to bracket or play around with push processing. Here is an example:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    If, on the other hand, you want to shoot hand-held and capture action you will need to shoot the film at a higher ISO (accepting loss of shadow detail) and then compensate with extended processing in a suitable developer.

    Bests,

    David
    www.dsallen.de

  4. #14
    Regular Rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHHAHH View Post
    I might overthink something here and you'll give yourself a face palm right now but i am stuck with metering my exposures at night scenes.
    With a DSLR i can get myself close by making test images and reviewing them on display...but now i have my first fully manual camera and a handheld lightmeter (with bulb and spotmeter).
    I would love to take my camera out for a walk at night, but i just can't figure out how to meter correctly for Tri-X...

    Any suggestions?
    Use your spotmeter exactly as you would in daylight. There is no difference in principle. Place things on the Zones you want them to be and calculate your exposures accordingly.




    This was made by deciding on Zone III for the steps up to the Castle Inn.

    RR

  5. #15
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Regular Rod View Post
    Use your spotmeter exactly as you would in daylight. There is no difference in principle. Place things on the Zones you want them to be and calculate your exposures accordingly.
    I agree that metering theory doesn't change. I use an incident meter very much as I would during the day and, like you, choosing my metering point carefully.

    Visualizing this is the challenge.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  6. #16
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    good thread, this. I've got a gossen lunasix 3 that I heavily rely on but this has given me some insight that I needed.
    /jonas

  7. #17
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHHAHH View Post
    I might overthink something here and you'll give yourself a face palm right now but i am stuck with metering my exposures at night scenes.
    With a DSLR i can get myself close by making test images and reviewing them on display...but now i have my first fully manual camera and a handheld lightmeter (with bulb and spotmeter).
    I would love to take my camera out for a walk at night, but i just can't figure out how to meter correctly for Tri-X...

    Any suggestions?
    I'm afraid, reciprocity failure compensation is going to be the bigger issue.
    good luck and start with incident meteringand doublingexposure time for reciprocity failure.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  8. #18
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Metering at night

    Quote Originally Posted by RalphLambrecht View Post
    I'm afraid, reciprocity failure compensation is going to be the bigger issue.
    good luck and start with incident meteringand doublingexposure time for reciprocity failure.
    I was waiting for someone to mention reciprocity...

    If you have an iPhone I would suggest this app! It's amazing! And was made by one of the guys on the Large Format Forum. It's very accurate. It's been recently updated with a ton more films.

    Reciprocity Timer...

    https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/reci...459691262?mt=8
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  9. #19
    pstake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    I was waiting for someone to mention reciprocity...

    If you have an iPhone I would suggest this app! It's amazing! And was made by one of the guys on the Large Format Forum. It's very accurate. It's been recently updated with a ton more films.

    Reciprocity Timer...

    https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/reci...459691262?mt=8
    Wow that's awesome. Thanks, Stone!

  10. #20

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    If you're using a CDS meter for very low light, be sure to keep the cell covered when in bright areas - the CDS cell has a memory, like our eyeballs it takes some time (not as much) for it's low light sensitivity to recover.

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