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The only issue with NiCd (not really with NiMH) is that the extra current capacity can recharge the flash faster, which, under constant fire-as-soon-as-the-ready-light-comes-on abuse could overheat the flash.
Recharagble alkalines truly suck. I thought they'd be cool and got a couple sets and in fewer than 20 cycles they were down to half capacity.
Check the sync voltage if you're using an electronic camera. Most pro bodies are fine with high voltage (1-series Canons, etc.) but consumer TTL cameras--Rebels and N70s especially--really do go pffft.
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The flash takes Metz 300/3000 cables so the sync voltage shouldn't be a problem.
So Nimhs are okay?
I've had good luck with the alkalines. They are lousy choices for a wedding photographer but if you don't need to run them down then they work fine. I just top up the charge after a couple of rolls.
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NiMH require considerably smarter chargers -- they'll be damaged by levels of overcharge that would barely detect as fully charged with NiCd peak chargers. If you have a charger made specifically for NiMH, and cells designed for rapid discharge, they'll do better than NiCd for anything except absolute maximum discharge or charge rate (and no electronic flash comes near that current draw -- 10 NiCd D cells with welded connectors can start your car).
Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.
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I picked up a Nimh charger awhile back. Then found out it was cheaper to buy 24 batteries off Ebay then four locally. If Nimhs are okay I can use those. So it won't damage the flash then?
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I've used NiCd cells in a AA powered consumer flash without problems. Aforementioned overheating problems are the only concern, and should be an issue only if you operate as fast as the flash can recharge for an extended period. Worth noting, if the flash has an external 120 V power capability, it's probably rated to operate at 4-5 times the flash-per-minute rate you can get with the very best rechargeable cells.
Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.
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I won't be using many full power flashes. One of the reasons for getting the bigger flash was more partial power flashes. If I'm explaining that right.
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Full power or partial, the concern would be prolonged operation as rapidly as the flash can charge the capacitor -- equivalent to maximum battery drain. If you let the flash sit as long after it's fully charged as it took to charge, it shouldn't even become a problem.
Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.
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 Originally Posted by Donald Qualls
Worth noting, if the flash has an external 120 V power capability, it's probably rated to operate at 4-5 times the flash-per-minute rate you can get with the very best rechargeable cells.
Not necessarily. The thing that generally fries in an overheated battery flash is the chopper transistor, which cuts the incoming DC into pulses so it can be stepped up by a transformer to 400+ volts. This would not be part of the circuit under external AC operation, nor under high-voltage-pack operation.
(Yes, I've had a few fires. I like hooking 283s up to 6v 4ah lead cells, which will recycle the flash a lot faster than the best AAs, definitely fast enough to cause trouble. Worse, in early 283s the chopper fails closed, not open. Cooks the traces right off the circuit board!)
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Originally Posted by Roger Krueger
Worse, in early 283s the chopper fails closed, not open. Cooks the traces right off the circuit board!
Well, at least this will bring proceedings to a halt so you have half a chance to disconnect and set aside the smoking unit and plug in a spare... :rolleyes:
Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.
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After all that stress and worry. The flash shows up and the manual tells me. To use either alkaline or Nicad. At least I think that's what they mean. It's clear the manual was translated from something else. Likely German. I'm guessing Nihm will be okay to. OTOH the thing seems to charge slowly with alkalines.
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