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  1. #11
    eric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donald Qualls
    The Model 100 uses either a 531 or 532 battery, both still available from Polaroid (if the contacts aren't corroded beyond help); make sure you have the correct type, though; the 531 is 4.5 V, while the 532 is 3 V, but they're identical size and connectors and too much voltage could
    Donald,
    Great information. On my similar 250, it uses a 4.5v 531 battery and Adorama has one for it. I did hear that Polaroid sells them too.

    the (probalby green) connectors and wire in a 2xAAA or 3xAAA battery holder; the camera will work fine on these batteries, and they'll be obtainable
    I've seen jpegs on the web that has these and I'm electronically illerate so I didn't try it.
    690, and 665 (the last will require setting the camera to ASA 75 and then turning the lighten-darken dial about one to 1 1/2 large divisions toward
    Thanks for this tip. I'll be experimenting with 665 pretty soon and I'll try this
    need flash). The synch socket on the side of the shutter is X synch, and the L shaped slot above operates a switch that sets the exposure circuit for flash operation.
    Not sure how the 100 looks like but I've wanted to see if I can figure out how to set up an external flash with mine.

  2. #12
    PhotoPete's Avatar
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    I have illustrated instructions on converting packfilm cameras to use standard N size batteries. It requires no soldering (it's optional), and the N cells are small enough that you can mount them and their holders inside the existing battery changer. I can send these out if anyone is interested.

    I would also make a plug for the Fuji color film. It develops slower, but the colors are richer than the Polaroid, IMHO.

  3. #13
    Donald Qualls's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Sorensen
    Seems that you could also use an auto flash like a Vivitar 283 and just set it to the correct setting for your film speed and aperture. That is if there is any reliable data regarding the actual aperture on these cameras.
    Most likely you could -- with the camera set for "indoor without flash" on ASA 3000, or "Bright or Dull Day, also Flash" with ASA 75, you can count on f/8.8, which is too small for my little automatic flash, but might work with a more powerful unit like the Vivitar. The Land List shows the smallest aperture for the Model 100 at f/42, but doesn't seem to have information on any intermediate apertures; if you ever have the lens off, it should be possible to measure the actual apertures and do the arithmetic (114 mm focal length). Some later models changed the smallest aperture from f/42 to f/48 or so (I think this was the 300 series). Or you could compare guide numbers of your flash against an M2B in a 3-inch polished bowl (with the filter on the flash unit, it acts like a blue bulb even with a clear bulb in the socket) to extrapolate a workable distance for the above apertures, as I'll do with my small strobe if I ever use it (I have enough M2B bulbs to last me a couple years or more at the rate I use them).
    Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.

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