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 Originally Posted by Ed Sukach
Trying before buying might not be easy, or possible.
In reading this, my "carved-in-stone" belief that ALL autofocusing systems REQUIRE the use of a circular polarizer was shaken. So - I went to my latest acquisition, and my only autofocusing camera, a Canon EOS Elan IIe.
In scouring the Instruction book .. not one word about polarizing filters. Nada.
Then to the B&W web site and their .pdf Filter Catalog, page 15:
"B&W Circular Polarizing Filter - Highly efficient standard circular polarizing filter for all cameras with beam splitters in the light paths of their TTL exposure meters and with autofocus lenses. Circular polarizers have the same pictorial effect as linear polarization, but allow for proper exposure metering and distance settings."
The question then is whether or not the camera in question has a "beam splitter". If so, proper operation would be suspect, at least, with the use of a "linear polarizer"; while a circular polarizer would be appropriate in either case.
It might be wise to opt for the "circular", given the possibility of its use in a future system, with "beam splitter".
B+W are in the know, ditto Hoya.
It is the meter that is going to be most affected by the type of polariser, much less the autofocus. Particularly evaluative / matrix meters. Most cameras using evaluative (Canon) or matrix (Nikon) et al systems have one or more beam splitters and thus a Circular Polariser (C-POL) is requisite.
.::Garyh
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Canon EOS1N ('Brutus', 1993), TS-E 24mm f3.5L, 20mm f2.8, 17-40 f4L, 70-200 f2.8L
Pentax 67 ('Pentaximus', 2010) + SMCP 45mm f4, 55mm f4 & 165mm f4LS;
Zero Image 6x9 multi-format pinhole (2008); Sekonic L758D;
Olympus XA, Nikon Coolpix P7700
"If you're not having fun, then you're not doing it right!"
♦
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 Originally Posted by PhotoJim
Autofocus isn't the only issue. Autoexposure can be an issue too. The beam splitter is the key, as mentioned above.
But also not a clear, definite key.
For instance, the OP is using a Hasselblad. Neither the Hasselblad prisms with built-in meter nor the cameras with built-in meter require a circular polarizer. And all of those 'split' part of the light away towards the metering system.
You could indeed just 'opt' to be on the safe side, and get a circular.
But those are quite a bit more expensive than regular ones, so if you do not need one ...
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 Originally Posted by Q.G.
But also not a clear, definite key.
For instance, the OP is using a Hasselblad. Neither the Hasselblad prisms with built-in meter nor the cameras with built-in meter require a circular polarizer. And all of those 'split' part of the light away towards the metering system.
You could indeed just 'opt' to be on the safe side, and get a circular.
But those are quite a bit more expensive than regular ones, so if you do not need one ...
The expansion on the subject is relevant anyway for those reading and wondering why there are two distinct versions of polarizer and obviously, higher prices for the circular. Yes, I am aware the OP's mentioned Hasselblad is not so endowed with the techie evaluative/matrix stuff the rest of us are using. I imagine the cost for a Hassy POL would be quite substantial.
.::Garyh
♦
Canon EOS1N ('Brutus', 1993), TS-E 24mm f3.5L, 20mm f2.8, 17-40 f4L, 70-200 f2.8L
Pentax 67 ('Pentaximus', 2010) + SMCP 45mm f4, 55mm f4 & 165mm f4LS;
Zero Image 6x9 multi-format pinhole (2008); Sekonic L758D;
Olympus XA, Nikon Coolpix P7700
"If you're not having fun, then you're not doing it right!"
♦
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 Originally Posted by Poisson Du Jour
Yes, I am aware the OP's mentioned Hasselblad is not so endowed with the techie evaluative/matrix stuff the rest of us are using.
You're focussing on the wrong bit.
The important bit is that they use beam splitters anyway.
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"For instance, the OP is using a Hasselblad. "
No, the OP asked about the fine crepe-paper like appearance of one circular polarizer versus another of the same manufacture.
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I just looked in the latest Hasselblad Manual, it says all the V system cameras use regular linear polarizers.
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 Originally Posted by TimVermont
"For instance, the OP is using a Hasselblad. "
No, the OP asked about the fine crepe-paper like appearance of one circular polarizer versus another of the same manufacture.
Apologies, it was Glaiben.
As the Fish Plate of the Day mentioned "The expansion on the subject is relevant anyway for those reading and wondering why there are two distinct versions of polarizer".
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 Originally Posted by Q.G.
As the Fish Plate of the Day mentioned "The expansion on the subject is relevant anyway for those reading and wondering why there are two distinct versions of polarizer".
Good morning;
The additional discussion of the differences in the two types of polarizing filters commonly available certainly is appropriate. The differences in the two types really become noticeable when you are comparing the prices for a 112 mm or a 122 mm polarizing filter.
Oh, why did I want that big lens anyway? Bigger filters, a Wimberley gimbal head, a bigger tripod, . . . . .
Enjoy;
Ralph Javins, Latte Land, Washington
There is no digital effect or computer program or an "add-on" or "plug-in" for Adobe PhotoShop
Creative Suite 5, that can simulate or equal watching the magic that happens in the developing
tray when you can turn on the safe light, and see the image begin to faintly form on the print and
come up on that paper in the developing tray.
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 Originally Posted by Ralph Javins
Good morning;
The additional discussion of the differences in the two types of polarizing filters commonly available certainly is appropriate. The differences in the two types really become noticeable when you are comparing the prices for a 112 mm or a 122 mm polarizing filter.
Oh, why did I want that big lens anyway? Bigger filters, a Wimberley gimbal head, a bigger tripod, . . . . .
Sympathies. 
I imagine a 112 or 122mm C-POL would cost a king's random indeed, moreso if it's a Kaisseman (i.e. B+W's venerated objet de art). I have always been much aggrieved at the high cost of smaller by comparison C-POL filters ie. going from 67mm to 77mm incurred a $39 increase! Fortunately, only once bitten: step-up/down rings are used to good effect now.
.::Garyh
♦
Canon EOS1N ('Brutus', 1993), TS-E 24mm f3.5L, 20mm f2.8, 17-40 f4L, 70-200 f2.8L
Pentax 67 ('Pentaximus', 2010) + SMCP 45mm f4, 55mm f4 & 165mm f4LS;
Zero Image 6x9 multi-format pinhole (2008); Sekonic L758D;
Olympus XA, Nikon Coolpix P7700
"If you're not having fun, then you're not doing it right!"
♦
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