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  1. #1

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    Light table replacement glass help

    Hi,

    I have a 60's model NUARC light table with line-up bar that I use every day in my print shop. I am trying to find replacement glass and the original manufacturer's replacement pane is no longer available. I have read some threads where people discuss making their own tables, but the glass I need is pretty specific. It would have to be light diffusing non-glare glass with a ceramic coating on the bottom for heat protection. I do laser cutting on it, so it would need to be an actual glass surface as opposed to a light-diffusing film coating or frosting spray. Does anybody know how I might find something this elusive?
    Last edited by thekey; 09-14-2009 at 03:32 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #2
    Mike Wilde's Avatar
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    I know I guy who does his own frosting, with some form of viscous paste with hydroflouric acid as the etchant as one of the 'active ingredients'. You clean the glass, rub the paste on, leave it for a period of time that varies depending on how etched you wnat, then rinse it off. All of this is done with rubber gloves and other relevant PPE.

    Could the single piece of specialty glass be relaced by two layers, one which deals with the diffusion, and the second one underneath that deals with the heat absorbing?
    my real name, imagine that.

  3. #3
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    I was under the impression nuArc light tables used plain glass for the top with a sheet of opal diffusing plastic underneath.

    Even if this isn't the original configuration there is nothing to prevent you from changing to such a design.
    DARKROOM AUTOMATION
    f-Stop Timers - Enlarging Meters
    http://www.darkroomautomation.com/da-main.htm

  4. #4

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    Thanks for these!
    I will look into the double layering of glass for the different functions. I considered acid etching, however the table is 30" x 40" and getting a consistent level throughout could be very difficult. If anybody else has an idea on how I could go about this it would be greatly appreciated.

  5. #5

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    Beware hydrofluoric acid. It absorbs through the skin and dissolves bones. Just a sample of the sites devoted to using it and surviving:

    http://www.uwm.edu/Dept/EHSRM/LAB/labHF.html

  6. #6

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    I bought a 6x6" piece of "opal glass" from a stained glass supplier. While it is very fine-grained, and also very dense [not letting much light through], and it is not colour neutral, being warmer than the light source.

  7. #7
    richard ide's Avatar
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    I have made light tables using:
    1. Clear glass and matte surface drawing film underneath
    2. Clear glass and "sign white" acrylic underneath
    3. Sand blasted glass
    All three work very well although I prefer the first two.
    Richard

    Why are there no speaker jacks on a stereo camera?



 

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