How do you open a 110 film cassette?
Okay, so I got my 16mm reel.
Someone sent me some Sakuracolor SR-100 that is C-41 process in a 110 film. I would like to open the thing in my dark bag so I can load it on the reel.
Is there any kind of pictorial guide or anything?
edit: cartridge is in two pieces now, film safely loaded though.
Last edited by Athiril; 07-22-2011 at 04:37 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Twist and shout is what I do with 126...
I meant without breaking the cassette
To reload the cassette, you first have to take the cassette apart. This is not difficult if the room lights are on, but if you have exposed film in the cassette that you want to develop, you'll need to try to deconstruct the cassette in a dim light -- not an easy task. So, if it's your first cassette, just kiss the film inside goodbye. Turn those lights up, so you don't lose a finger. Carefully split the cassette along the seams with an X-acto knife. You don't need much pressure on the glued seams, but the seams are hard to find. If you are looking at the back of the cassette, one seam runs along the top UNDER the lip that runs along the top. The seams also run right down the middle of the tabs on each end of the cassette. On the bottom, the seams run around the front edges of each film spool. You may end up ruining your first cassette, but everything gets better with time! When you get it appart, you'll see that the film is attached to a spool in the take-up spool and is pulled out of the supply spool.
I twist carefully and swear if it doesn't separate cleanly then. I don't use a knife.
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First you load
35mm tub & lid
into dark bag noting that there is a notch in backing paper to get pick into and underneath to pull paper and film out of take up spool.
best to hold film away from plastic with lint free rag or glove
the film should come away from backing you roll it up and drop into tub and cap.
In day light
separate glue lines
blood does not make a good developer...
Just be aware of *not* dragging the film against the plastic - scratches galore!!!!
I used 2 new 110 cassettes to show staff how to do this if the cassette was needed again by a customer - first one I just ripped the film out without a care in the world, the second I made sure to show them how to do it gently, to avoid scratching.
Processed both rolls and let them take a look - one nice and clean the other had "railroad tracks" all the way along the film; deep enough that you could feel with finger nail.
Definitely got the point across . . . . . .
Yes lint free glove or thumb piece needed and care.
The new (ie current) Lomo cassettes will separate like OEM Kodak ones from '80 and '90. Slightly different design but good build standard.
If anyone is a bit of a DIY-er, you could easily fit a bolt the same size as the spool hole to a heavy-ish piece of timber, and pull backwards on the canister. This "cracks" the 110/126 cassette for easy removal of the film.
The dark boxes used in mini-labs have a similar version of this in them, to make reloading the film into special processor cassettes quick and painless.
As long as you pull towards the flat side of the canister, it cracks nicely; on the odd occasion that it doesn't, **gently** twisting a flathead screwdriver will crack the spool area without damaging the film inside. Gentle and steady, not rough and haphazard, or you'll gouge the film.
Actually even the Lomo cassettes will separate with a finger nail if you don't bite them (the nails).
If you use nail lacquer may not be good idea.
Much reduced risk of stitches (sutures) compared with scalpel or damage to cassette.
Off to get 30m of foma 16mm...