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  1. #31

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    Make rockets for the kids: go outside, put a teaspoon of bicarb soda in the canister, pour in a little vinegar, pop the lid on, put it upside down on a concrete path, stand back and wait 30 seconds. Four metres is about the highest we've managed to shoot one. Lots of fun for ten year olds. Make sure they stand back...

  2. #32

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    I have a metal one that I used to store tooth powder in for my foot locker display when I was in Germany in the army.That would be about 1960/'61.I still have it.Ron G

  3. #33
    Mike Wilde's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Maris;1226717]Thinking of winding backing paper back on to empty 120 spools.../QUOTE]

    I do this with quite a few. When the 8x10x 250 sheet old paper box I store them in gets full, they start to get tossed again.

    I have masking taped unspooled 120 backing paper over cracks around doors in motels bathrooms to turn them into light tight changing rooms, so I could change film holders before the sun went down before.

    I also have used old backing paper as overlapping edgess for panels that get pushed into window openings when I want to turn the laundry room adjacent to the darkroom into a temporary darkroom when I make 20x24" prints.

    The spools and backing paper are used when I reload them with 35mm film, for a image including sprokect holes and edge markings effect, when shot in a 120 roll film camera.

    I also have slit down 70mm bulk film and reloaded 120 film this way.
    my real name, imagine that.

  4. #34
    Mike Wilde's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jford View Post
    Make rockets for the kids..
    I donate my surplus black ones to the local scouts troop for these such activities. They also use them to make up mini moisture resisitant spice storage containers for when they go camping.

    The clear ones I pass on to a uni archeology prof who is a pal. he uses them to store all sorts of small bits that are found at field investigations. He says they are so much easier to label once in the can.
    my real name, imagine that.

  5. #35

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    A friend of mine is a science teacher, and asked for the 35mm holders. They make volcanoes. ???

  6. #36
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgcull View Post
    A friend of mine is a science teacher, and asked for the 35mm holders. They make volcanoes. ???
    Tiny volcanoes! We used to use soup cans for volcanoes in science class.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  7. #37
    rjbuzzclick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Jones View Post
    With a little internal trimming, the caps from black Kodak cans make servicable lens caps for many of the lenses on Speed Graphics and other older cameras.
    +1 I use them for all of my LF 4x5 lenses, front and back, and then use a strip of double-sided velcro to wrap around the lens/lensboard to hold them on.
    Reid

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/rjbuzzclick/

    "If I had a nickel for every time I had to replace a camera battery, I'd be able to get the #@%&$ battery cover off!" -Me

  8. #38

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    I'm building an ark. I need either really tiny animals(2 ea.) or a crapload of canisters.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  9. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Jones View Post
    One can develop a short piece of test film in one.
    This sounds interesting. Presumably it has to be very short( how many frames/inches?) as it would curl against itself inside the can or does the dev liquid keep the film from sticking to itself?

    Presumably you have to fill the can with dev in the dark or pre-fill it and place the film in it in the dark?

    What happens at the end of dev? The emptying and filling with stop has again to be done in the dark?

    Thanks

    pentaxuser

  10. #40
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    The cannisters hold about 3.5" of film. Longer strips of film might overlap and prevent developer from completely reaching the film. They do have to be loaded in the dark, but this seems to be no great problem. Loading the film into the cannister and then adding the developer may be less a problem than trying to put the film into a cannister which already contains the developer. After the developer is dumped and the stopping completed, the stop bath can be replaced by the fix in very dim light. I would use an ordinary kitchen timer to time the development in total darkness rather turn the light on after loading the film and off before dumping the developer.

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